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Find out if its was an adhesive or a sealant, they should not be stuck together as it won't allow the wood to expand & contract. Can you post a picture so we can tell if its a major crack or just light surface checking. J

Use T&G with a longer tongue than the groove depth and that way you will get your open joint. For loose tongue just cut a groove in both edges and then use strips of ply as tongues, again if the ply is 2mm wider than depth of the two grooves you will get your gap. Check the moisture...

Danish oil goes off in the tin once opened, I expect you will find all the solids have dropped out of suspension and have formed a thick gel at the bottom of the tin. By using teh old stuff you are really just applying the thinner/carrier and wont get a build up resulting in a matter finish. J

Yes the lighter strips are the sapwood, this is not measured as a defect in the American grading system but can look unsightly. Short answer is to go and have a look but almost all of the staved worktops will have sapwood to some degree, the only way to avoid it is to have custom tops made...

If it is humid due to the plastering then this should drop and hopefully the worktops will start to flatten out, you may want to try a dehumidifier. If they do go back flat then get the same treatment you used on the top onto the underside. J

I've bought and fitted plenty that had no presealing. You do need to oil the underside, I usually do it at least twice. The reason for treating the top & bottom the same is that any changes in humidity will be absorbed by the worktop at an equal rate. They usually tend to cup if not...

The other size is the screw dia much like old screws were measured by gauge eg 8, 10, 12, etc I would go for the 5.0x60 J

You can buy the blum runners in different weight capacities. I use the 30kg ones for smaller draws and the 50kg for pan draws and have not had any problems with any of the kitchens I have made. J

Called an insert nut http://www.isaaclord.co.uk/productDetail.aspx?product=305&subCat=22&parentCat=1/22 J

The "bits" look too flat for straw board but there was/is another board whick was made from wood fibres a bit like a narrow shaving from a plane and then bonded with a cement, looks like it may be that. Known as wood wool cement board Looks like part of a flat roof may have been replaced at...

yes I know that, I was suggesting the thinner ones as an alternative if she wants large format without the weight issue J

You can do large format onto those walls look at the Kerlite tiles. I did a bathroon in them last year 1000x400 and 3mm thick, also did the counter top in one of the larger 3000x1000x3 tiles though I chickened out of cutting this one and had it cut by my granite suppliers. Couple of pics here...

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As ladylola says it Tentis board J

As Foxy says the latest Blums have the softclose built into the hinge and there is a small lever that allows you to switch it off, handy for small doors where the damping effect from one hinge is enough. Make sure you get the correct height mounting plates to suit your carcase as some of the...

If the carcases have 5mm mounting holes then you want the 3mm spacing mounting plate 173L813N If the carcases are just dimpled to take 3.5mm screws then you want the 3mm spacing 175H713N And for the hinge with integrated Blumotion you need the 71B3550 assuming the screw holes in the door...

Have you got 15 or 18mm thick carcases? J

I like the Eklind ones, J&L MSC sell them

Smaller saw means you won't have the capacity to cut as much vertically. Kickback depends on the saw, cheap one won't have softstart so will kick more that better quality saw. J

Actually you could just have a sliding MDF panel, paint it a neutral colour and then stick strips of timber to that which would give the look. If you want a proper door then as foxy says good joinery and then paper panels. J