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As others have said, the internal resistance is calculated using a load tester. You must not connect a standard ohm meter across a battery, it certainly won't do the meter any good and could go bang. Normally something like this will do the job...

Yep, asbestos was the in thing back then. The cloth covers on the back of those stills projectors will be asbestos, as likely the lining of the projection room to stop the spread of fire.

Thanks all, I have seen them on industrial sewing machines too! I have opted to go with a contactor variety from screwfix, about twice the price of the clarke variety.

Hi, just wondering if anyone has used these before: http://www.clarkeinternational.com/shop/range/details/direct-on-line-starters/path/accessories-consumables ? I'm wondering if they are a contactor or one of those spring switches? It says they are for single or 3 phase motors. I'm suspecting...

Is the phase what gets pulled down due to voltage drop on that phase and the remaining two phases what get pulled up due to the two current return paths through each of the remaining two phases? The voltage will drop on whichever phase has more current drawn, this will in essence pull the...

I have added it to the sticky at the top

MK have issued a recall for some of their B and C curve RCBOs CLICK HERE FOR DETAILS The recall notice states We have identified a potential safety issue with the manufacture of a limited number of MK Sentry RCBOs which may result in the device failing to trip under certain very limited...

That is talking about a lost neutral, where you don't have ballanced loads on a 3 phase system and whichever phase is drawing the most current pulls the voltage down on that phase and up on the other two. When his happens magic smoke escapes from lots of equipment! In a single phase system a...

Nope, they only make them with one switch. Options can be use a fused spur and the two gang switches, or use a grid system. Either way will not look as neat as what you had before.

Afaict the CAD32 comprises of 3x N/O contacts and 2x N/C contacts.

From what I remember a hive reciever requires a permanent live and neutral supply to it, when heat is called for it operates a dry relay contact. The earth connection is there for convenience. From what I gather your old honeywell timer/thermostat only has live and switch live? On the plus...

Either is fine

http://www.screwfix.com/p/mk-2-gang-45a-dp-cooker-switch-with-13a-switched-plug-socket-white/17157 http://www.screwfix.com/p/mk-2-gang-surface-pattress-box-white-44mm/19307

You are correct to be concerned, if they removed the fuse spur and replaced it with a plain switch then your lights are now fused at 30-32A which is wrong.

Will it be classed as IT (protection by ADS) or protection by electrical separation?

That second bit is ancient, P2 was withdrawn ages ago.

I'm lost!!

TT supply?

If you want a good allround spread of light I'd stick with normal fluorescent.

You should be able to set the two up with different wifi names and passwords, so you can give the kids access to the second router and then turn it off at night. You want the two wifi signals on different channels, I like them at least 2 channels away.