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Old school boy here i have always gone with the hall position because people don't seem to congregate in halls, where as they do in the lounge where body heat plays a big part in raising the temperature, room stat turns off boiler rest of house too cold. If placed in hall out of direct...

Corgi bloke who came should know if the position is okay and no you will not lose the use of double socket.

I don't want anything for it, you will need to give me an address to send it to.

If you would like one i could post one to you but not until monday.

Hi I have both black wire and white wire solenoids, although they are probably the same (second hand). Out of interest have you got 240v across T1 & T3? if yes then the white wired solenoid will be faulty if you don't have 240v then the board is faulty, same with T2 & T3 black wired solenoid.

If it gets as far as pilot light then it will probably be the second solenode which can be changed if your husband is a electrician you will need a RGI to remove the gas valve to do this, i have some of these if you are interested.

Yes if your boiler is losing pressure and there is no sign of a leak or water coming from the pressure relief pipe outside, you probably have a leak in a buried pipe.

IMHO i would get it repaired by a corgi professional these are not bad boilers.

Gas valve for electronic model unobtainable except from private sellers/ebay etc. Why do you need a gas valve? What problem does your boiler have?

Hi the on off problem when fitting new board is that the potentiameter for the on/off switch needs altering before fitting it's a case of trial and error to find correct position one position will not allow it to turn on and another will not allow it to turn off. a pig to get all pots in correct...

Then i would say get the rest of your system checked as well as the boiler because you may well still have a sticking valve.

It appeared not to want to switch off after moving the time to the off position. Fair enough now OP has come back and explained, but the original post that i replied to was about why it didn't switch off with timer which now probably is not the problem.

Roaring noise is the way the OP has described what the boiler is doing when it won't switch off after timer has been turned off, I agree with you that if it is indeed roaring your right, but it might be burning normal but continuasly and describing it as roaring might not be what it's doing, i...

it sounds like your gas valve is passing and the boiler has back lit onto the injector. What has that got to do with electrical supply? OP said it won't turn off after turning off timer, it may well be doing what you suggest as well but that's not to say it hasn't anything to do with sticking MV.

It appeared not to want to switch off after moving the time to the off position. Namsag i was reading what op posted was you, could be lots of problems but i was replying to what was posted.

You should have either one motorised valve with three pipes going into it or two valves which have two connections, plastic/metal box looking item on pipework probably near cylinder.

If your turning off your programmer/timeclock and your boiler still works i would say you probably have a problem with a micro switch in one of your motorised valves not the boiler.

Yes i know that but thought i would give that information because a pound to a penny i bet her neighbour has blocked hers up.

Permanent ventilation is mandatory for a room fitted with a back boiler. There are permanent vents on sale which vent but stop draughts google gas ventilators and see, if you fit a vent yourself bear in mind that the cavity can't be left open to the vent ( cavity must have liner between inner...

They make these with male thread on backplate which gives a set spacing or a female thread on backplate for use with threaded rod which you can make stand off any length you like, munson ring is standard but back plate is ordered either male or female.