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Its unlikely you will ever need 8 bar, even with a shower. A good pressure reducing valve will allow you to adjust the pressure down to a value which should stop the banging, but still make your shower work fine. You will still get the same amount of water coming out, unless there is some...

If it uses the same control curves as the EcoTec 415, which I suspect it does, then the anti-cycle time depends on the setting of parameter d2, and the target water temperature (heat), i.e. the bottom dial. The default for d2 is 20 minutes at 20C, which equates to 4.5 mins at 65c and 6 mins...

That`s all right until the pipe gets blocked, someone flushes the loo, then the sh*t would really hit the fan :) Assuming that I understand correctly where the condensate drain end up.

I would check to see if you need such a large output boiler first. 28Kw is a lot of heat, unless you have a large house with lots of radiators. You will get a lot of grief if you over rate the boiler. Read some of the posting by the experts on this forum, to give you some idea of you heating...

If you search on the internet for the make and model of valve, you should be able to find the wiring diagram. Also, if you look at the "similar topics" at the bottom of the page, you should find more help there.

If you boiler is already installed with all the valves and pipework connected, then you may already be a bit limited. I looked at all the various options when my Vaillant Ecotec 415 was installed. All their options seemed quite expensive, and I did not see the advantage of weather...

If its an open vented system, then I am sure that one of pros on this forum will suggest a blocked feed pipe from the F&E tank. Look in the FAQs, it tells you all about it. I had the same problem with a 30 year old Thorn Olympic, sounded like fireworks going off inside. It will be...

Well if its lasted that long, you are very lucky! The point is that you have a leak, out of the overflow. It may fail totally and your overflow may not cope. A damaged ceiling will cost you more than a plumber.

If changing the diaphragm does not fix it, then its a better option to change the whole assembly, they are not expensive. Often you will find that the water has "worn" the valve seating, and nothing you can do, will stop it leaking. I have learned this from experience over the 30 years I have...

I have one of these http://www.screwfix.com/prods/93829/Plumbing/Central-Heating-Controls/Horstmann-HRFS1-Room-Thermostat It seems to be reliable, provided the distance to the boiler is not too far. The clock is quite readable, and has a backlight if needed.

An electric shower would normally be connected to the main cold water feed and not come from the storage tank. But who knows what has been done before. It could be that the shower is scaled up inside, but that would not explain the low pressure at the taps, unless the cold tap has been fed...

Well I had a Vaillant EcoTec Plus 415 fitted and its very good indeed, and matches our heating requirements. Its also a lot smaller. It was fitted in the same place as the old Thorn, but with new flue which is much smaller, and only a small amount of cool vapour comes out of it, compared with...

Mine used to do that before I had it replaced. It also used to make a load banging and hissing noise. It had been working for 30 years. It turned out that the feed pipe from the tank was almost totally blocked with scale. This was discovered when the the boiler was removed, and only a small...

I have an EcoTec plus 415 and it does need a bit of tweaking to overcome any short cycling which occurs when the return temperature has not dropped low enough, before the boiler starts up again. The problem is that during the initial 60 seconds, the power output is quite high (I think its...

Depending on the type of installation, the hot water dial may not do anything. I have a Vaillant Ecotec 415 which feed a vented system with HW tank. It does not have any Vaillant Ebus controls, so only the heating temperature control is used. If you give the experts here a bit more info on...

I was thinking of something like http://www.screwfix.com/prods/71054/Plumbing/Radiator-Valves/Terrier-i-temp-i30-Programmable-Thermostatic-Radiator-Valve No wireless involved Keith

Are these electronic programmable TRVs any good? They seem to replace existing TRV heads with an electronic thermostat/actuator? Would this help the OP if one was fitted in the conservatory, would save messing around with valves? Would still need TRVs elsewhere of course. Anyway I am...

I assumed, probably incorrectly, that there were TRVs fitted to the radiators in the house, which would have prevented overheating of the other rooms. Your advice, is of course correct, but it may not be practical for the OP to do this without a lot of cost and hassle, perhaps for a small...

Assuming that you do not want to heat the conservatory all the time, why not fit a programmable thermostat in it, and set it to bypass the main thermostat, when you need it to heat the area. Conservatories are not usually very well insulated, so expect large heating bills.

This is a bit of a long shot, as I also have a Vaillant Ecotec. There is a relay which switches the pump off after a short time. Normally this is set to a default of five minutes, but it can be set as low as two minutes if parameter D1 has been altered by mistake. This is the pump overrun...