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I'll see if they are the same and if they do unscrew. Good shout, but I'll order new hinges as needed

Ok, so I'd need a whole new hinge on one side, which would include the bit needed. I assume I'll need to measure the existing one and find an identical replacement, it then just fits to the side of the frame?

Yeah its the plastic black piece at the top which has worn through

So we've bought a house, but one of the bedroom window top openers won't pull in as it looks like this piece of plastic has worn through, which I'm assuming helps pull the window back in. Can someone tell me what this is called and if I can get a replacement? If not i guess i might be able to do...

Yeah we can leave the screed layer as long as it needs, but obviously need to crack on with the next layers after the slab asap so we can get moved in and stop paying rent+mortgage. Will likely get at least two weeks based on current plans and other work we need to do

So I'm having a 12cm slab poured next week ready for me to continue building up the next layers of PIR insulation, installing and pressure testing ufh and then have screed pumped in. How long will I need to leave the slab until I can start on the next steps do you think? I.e. dropping 150mm pir...

I've got D3 glue ready to go, so up to me if I put it on the joists, but your recommendation is really just to do the joins between boards and screw it down with the right screws. I think Omnie supply them as part of the order, so will check what type they are before using

Thanks for this. Silly question as I'm not an experienced diy person, but trying tl be more so. If I glue all the t&gs wouldn't i have the same issue i.e. be unable to lift the floor later? as im assuming the glue would bind the joins together and so need to be cut out somehow. I guess if people...

I've been reading some threads on this forum and it seems it's a split subject, I'm just trying to follow the manufacturer guidelines in this instance as it's a wet UFH system

Yeah the TorFloor 2 has a routed chipboard layer and the foil diffuser is built into the ply layer. So perhaps just go with filling any gaps with expanding foam and maybe taping the joins where PIR meets each other, then leave the timber joists so they can be glued. I can see the topic of glue...

This is a UFH routed structural board made of chipboard so no option for ply, although it does have a 6mm ply over it once fitted to protect the pipes and for the finished floor to sit onto, and the manufacturer guidelines state to glue to the joists and T&Gs, there are no services under the...

Yep between the joists with the PIR in firm and on small brackets for support. This is a UFH routed structural board, and the manufacturer guidelines state to glue to the joists and T&Gs, with it being a UFH not sure a VCL over the top would be a good idea

So I'm about to order a routed chipboard structural flooring from Omnie (22mm) which will replace my current floor boards. The joists on this suspended timber floor (downstairs) are 100mm deep and so I've purchased some PIR insulation and was planning on taping all joins and over the joists so...

I was planning on running a 25mm PIR upstand first around the room and then my 150mm insulation to effectivley hold it in place. I'm then planning on running over some spare 1200g DPM to act as a vapour barrier and then will use Omnie screed plate to hold piping in place. What I'm confused about...

Reviving this thread to see how you got on, I need to do the same thing i.e recess one of these in a solid single brick wall, the other in a cavity. Just wondering if you chased the depth out or removed the bricks and split/cut them in half

Tray? I could perhaps do that on the external wall side, but the internal wall will only be a single brick layer and same issue

Ah ok sorry you removed the brciks rathet than chased it in. I have a single brick inner leaf, cavity and outer brick leaf

Thanks, 45mm is the thickness I'd need to get it flush. I guess angle grinder + sds to right depth and chop it out would be best?

Yeah the entry point is at the lowest point of the suspended floor which has a layer of concrete 15cm under thr joists. I'll look to recess, the timco down section seems to be 45mm thick

So I've dug out my kitchen floor and now need to reinstate an air duct under it back to the suspended floor on the other side. There was previously a pipe across this solid floor to an airbrick on the external wall. Now I've dropped the floor level so the plan is to use one of these telescopic...