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seems like crap manufacture of the unit to me

Id replace them if they are bowed really bad and can be moved with his hand anyway if you reboard it it will look like a banana

local nurseries are the best you can inspect it and check its condition and pick the best rolls. I wouldnt touch b & q for turf probably been there a while and half dead!!!

is there a thermostat on the cylinder id check that first

shouldnt be anything to worry about if its not load bearing

yea should be fine just make sure the floor isnt dusty, if it is then I would use some pva glue to seal it first

couldnt agree more

I would remove it and reboard with board adhesive I wouldnt board ontop of that because it would come to far over your door frame from what I can see

I think theres a good chance the pipework has been disturbed or moved slightly if it was not secured very well initially. I dont think you have much choice other than to inspect the pipework because unblocking it isnt working

Are soldered joints permissable on underground copper pipework?

I would cap the waste pipe off under the concrete making sure if it gets filled with concrete its not going to block any waste pipes further down the run regards the hot and cold I would chisel away that compo and see where those pipes lead to not ideal capping them under the floor because...

Would I be able to use timber as a reinforcing joist or would it have to be steel and would there need to be any calcs from a structural engineer?

Hi I am looking at removing a stud wall on the ground floor. Above it the joists sit on this wall and overlap each other, they do not run the full length of the house. All the walls upstairs are stud walls to. My query is Once I remove this stud wall I need to support the timbers...

Lets just hope the same dont happen to the stop tap in the road dont force it if has seized use wd40 and turn it back and forth untill it starts to free up

thanks mate now how would that compare to having new floorboards and joists do you think it would cost more in materials. I think labour wise it would take less time to do the solid floor and there would be no risk of the dry rot coming back

bout 500mm deep no pipes room size is 3mx3.5m

do you think it would be easier and more cost effective to replace the timbers with concrete

The shower tray should be sealed with silicone to the backer board when it is first fitted and then once you have finished tiling and grouting you then silicone around the silcone tray again so it then has a double seal, it is the same principle with a bath.

Hi we have recently discovered dry rot in our downstairs livingroom the floor boards are rotten, the joists seem to have fungus growing on them which we believe to be dry rot, not sure at this stage how severe the dry rot is, the soil is also damp underneath. my query is basically if it can...

do you have to solvent weld the complete strap or just the flange