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How they fail? It's £800 for solid wood upgrade, unsure if it's worth it, deliberating...

Howdens got back to me, they're a grand more with their 'sale price' about 40% more. They won't give the detailed quote unless you go in though as they don't want comparing. F**k 'em!

I've speced a design using their online tool and can't see any drawbacks, and it's £800 more for solid wood doors.

The only thing that put me off is if you need to order any spares you have to spare a £99 delivery charge?

Hallo all, First kitchen install about to happen, I'm doing my research. Due to location likely going with one of the above. I haven't had prices but I'm a tight northerner and will haggle Howdens to something reasonable (or they can bog off). Knowing modern day companies I'm sure the 25 year...

I would defo go into the brick/block. I fitted several tall radiators about that size and they came with 80mm coach screws and wall plugs for the same. I found the wall plugs weren't grippy enough and bought Fisher Duopower which are superb. You might be ok if the battens are secured properly...

Just an update as I'm sure in the future people will find this by google. I had a bit of a back and forth on ebay which initially I thought was them dodging the warranty but after several messages of repeatedly pointing out what had failed and how I can not be the instigator the part has been...

It'll come down at some point, he knows this fine well but is trying to get rid of you. When I skimmed my artex I used PVA with builders sand and have had no problems. It's all so very similar to blue grit just a different colour!

I redid mine recently after a reputable plumber ****ed it up. Mine was put on 22mm marine ply but nothing stopping you putting wood in-between the joists so long as you support it well enough to ensure it doesn't move at all. In my case I wasn't after a sunken or flush tray install. The...

I'm probably three hours in with the wacker. The heat shield is screwed into holes in the exhaust, which are no more. Warranty claim has been filed...

Might make more sense with a diagram. With mine I was supplied foam tape where it says 'structural silicone'.

I've a skylight that's 45mm height. For the upstand I measure the batten (being the piece which the weight sits on) to top of lead as 55mm max. My skylights came with foam tape which is 10mm thick. I have no idea how much the foam will compress by when the skylight is on it. Some instructions...

Nobody can explain how though. I had a reply back from the seller - "only the tiles are waterproof". Frankly I'm expecting water ingression through the unions on the next downpour.

Edit - I'm not the first! https://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/dry-ridge-system-membrane-not-waterproof-surely-rain-can-get-in-through-the-plastic-spacers.591999/

I installed mine today and I think the answer is no. If you look at the union picture here https://www.amazon.co.uk/EasyRidge-Dry-Fix-Ridge-Kit/dp/B00UNOOV4E There's no channels. What's to stop water hitting the union part and splashing sideways a bit, in which case it will drip onto the mesh...

I was missing something. I've took them off to convert to dry ridge and found most have a piece that goes inbetween and has a groove on each side which the tile sits in. This provides the waterproofing between the tiles. I believe it also has a wavy bit to fill in the double roman pattern but...

Hah, probably, but it would be good to know what the technique is for double romans, sculpting the lead and somehow making it straight!

I've never done roofing before but now I've done membrane, tiles, flashing and now I've had to replace a half-round ridge tile. The ridge tile butts up to the other ridge tile but there's no lapping, t&g etc. The existing ridge tiles have broken tiles placed underneath then a dollop of mortar...

I've chased a diagonal line and mostly completed the flashing. It's waterproof but... Being double roman tiles the lead isn't straight. Trying to get it straight with snips isn't working well. It's like it needs a hot butter knife, or maybe a grinder. I'm not sure how-to so I've left it...

I like the longevity of lead. A diagonal install is a good compromise and I read it usually lasts longer as it's going into brick not just mortar. One question is what to fill the small gaps with, silicone or chalk? Another is whether to give a little pre-fill to the gap to aid sticking the...