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Thanks Avocet but stupidly the brake pipes have to be disconnected to remove the strut :( No knocking noises. Edit: I don't want to spend any money on the car before the MOT in case it fails for something expensive like the cat, as I would then trade-in the car.

Thanks guys. Yes, they are "McPherson type strut" and I think that I will cut some strips of steel so that I can place them between the strut and the jaws of the Hilka tool to prevent damage to the new struts.

Thanks guys, when I said "so I will have to wait and see", I meant that I take the car for the MOT with the intention of replacing the shockers soon after if they fail. Apart from buying the parts, I will get ready, tools etc, to do the job before the MOT.

Many years ago, I used a spring compressor with just on hook at each end to compress a Hillman Minx front spring and I seem to remember that it was a bit precarious. Would the Hilka spring compressor with twin hooks at each end be better for the rear strut spring on my Corolla? See:-...

Thanks guys, it's just the rear shockers, I have had an advisory notice for misting from them for the last 2 years. They bounce one and a half times and I can't see any oil, so I will have to wait and see.

If a car fails the MOT say 28 days before the old MOT expires, is it legal to drive the car during the 28 days before the old MOT expires?

I am looking to buy the cheapest Auris or Civic, my main priority is boot space with the back seats down, I have measured them and they are about the same. Just wondering if anyone has an opinion on a Auris or Civic. I am biased towards Toyota because of my long satisfying ownership of a...

I googled "car puncture repair kit" and found these:- http://www.amazon.co.uk/GadgetpoolUK-Motorcycle-Tubeless-Puncture-Repair/dp/B007EKQMLU http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TYRE-PUNCTURE-REPAIR-KIT-TUBELESS-MOTORCYCLE-MOTORBIKE-CAR-VAN-ATV-QUAD-TRIKE-/221557423744 I used this type of repair kit...

That is what I was thinking of doing, especially as many cars have aluminium wheels which could be damaged if there is serious damage to the tyre.

Toyota are reliable and Parkers Guide says that "The Avensis is one of the most reliable cars that you can buy". They have stopped making Avensis hatchbacks :( but there are some below £5000 and of course estates.

I wondered what delivery mileage on a new car should I expect?

They are unlikely to be able supply a new tyre, and won't be able to remove and fit a tyre anyway. Although I suppose they could transport you to a tyre fitter during 9-5. If it happened out of 9-5 they would have to take you to your home or destination and then get a mobile fitter out later!

Some new cars have no spare wheel, in the past I have had a blow-out on a motorway (3 mm tread minimum), so I wondered if anyone has used a mobile tyre repair company on a motorway and what were the costs involved? I googled and the only company that I found was:-...

Thanks for your help squeaky, I am very grateful. I will have to suck and see how it goes.

EDIT:- No, not a modern trap like that, and because of the pipework I cannot fit a trap like that either. To use a trap like that I would have to lift a lot of floorboards and alter the pipework :( and anyway the recess may cause a problem in sealing that too. The "short piece of pipe"...

Ah thanks. The Flush Cone that I bought from B&Q looks like plastic and not as pliable as rubber. The toilet bowel is an S type, exiting through the floor, and about 50 years old with very thick enamel, consequently I suspect I will need the Dow Corning to form a good seal.

Thanks ALCPlumbing, my first bodge was a bad bodge and I thought that at the time, so at the moment it is my intention to use the Dow Corning as above. If that fails then I will use the CT1.

Thanks squeaky. I am not sure of the correct terms so I will describe the complete set-up, only so that you understand the meaning of my terms:- 1. A chrome strainer is attached to a short piece of pipe (tailpipe?), near the top of the pipe there is a thread. 2. The pipe passes through...

Thanks but CT1 is partly an adhesive and hence I am concerned about having problems undoing the shower joint, should I need to in the future, as it is very difficult to access the joint. Having Googled around, I am tempted to use Dow Corning 785+. Has anyone experience of using this?

Shower waste outlet: A year ago I resealed the waste outlet from the shower tray, using Unibond (shower, bathroom & kitchen) Triple Protection anti-mould sealant, but it now appears to have leaked again. The rubber gasket that was originally fitted did not appear to be the correct shape to fit...