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Ditch the doglegs, and the wall plate idea (you mean the ones for outside taps?) and just use the proper kit. I'm not disagreeing with Richard C here but personally I found an SDS chisel kinder to the wall than the usuall hammer and bolster, last time I did that it bulged the plaster on the...

The ones in your link wont be suitable as they have compression fittings that shouldn't be tiled/cemented over. The ones in my link will work fine, unless the shower is going against the airing cupboard then the pipes chased into the wall will always have a 90 degree solder elbow. Plenty...

Yes, me too. I like the no frills way they are sent to keep the cost rock bottom. My drill body came wrapped in a jiffy bag, no expensive box or anything. Probably staight from their supplier? I wouldn't have thought they carry stock at those prices.

Chase the wall out with an SDS chisel and wrap your copper with denso tape, only go just enough depth so the pipes aren't proud and use a proper bar mixer fixing tit. Outside wall means blocks with be 4 inch and not those nasty 2 1/2 inch internal ones...

mmm......... I'd hate for anyone to go into my bedroom with a uv light! :oops: Have the tried Sentinal leak sealer?

Interesting, thanks guys.

Small skips can be dragged I suppose with a couple of guys, its just moving them when they're full, thats the problem.

Just wondered what their target market was, you don't see many domestic tradesmen with Festool stuff. A grand for a mitre saw and £152 for the hose to connect it to the extractor, thats serious money. Are they the premium, Rolls Royce of powertools or can you spend more?

So plumbers thought they could save time by not bothering to hang rads while laying pipes but now have created 10 times the hasle for themselves. The thought of just guessing when an expensive floor is going down is asking for trouble. Sounds like they deserve all they get, only excuse for...

We only have the op's side of things...... We need to know whether the rads were on site at the time of the holes being made in the floor. If they were the plumbers are to blame, no excuse. Or did the plumbers make a best guess from your sizes of rads that were due to be delivered a week...

Have you recieved yet Ian1234? I'm hoping my Makita BHP452 drill body will come today (Sat?), it will be another kick in the balls for me if it doesn't. :|

Interesting.... I've just ordered from them for the first time last night, their prices are amazing. Lets see if it comes.

Go on then, someone tell me why its so expensive. What do you get for your fifteen hundered quid?

Its certainly a ceramic cartridge, best bet is to go to B&Q tomorrow and see if you can match one up, they have various sizes regarding the splined shaft (8,10,12) etc. The thread will be 1/2" BSP or 3/4" BSP You'll have to buy two though, or see if a plumbers merchant has any, mine never do...

Kinked Hep20 pipe AND a cheap non WRAS flexi (also kinked). I would replace all in copper but if you're doing it yourself just shorten the 'grey' pipe at the isolation valve but use an insert and a copper olive. Why you installed it like that is a mystery but it made me chuckle.

The top splined shaft is the flow on/off, it will most likely have a 'regular' sytle tap headgear in there either washered or ceramic disc. This alone controls water to the shower head. See if you can remove it and then post a pic. Just curious as to the reason to buy 2nd hand such an item?

I could buy one at that price! I'm sure its a fantastic machine though.

Lets just say I wouldn't take full advantage of all its settings. :)

http://www.makita-direct.co.uk/acatalog/Makita_KP312_Planer.html Don't want anything fancy, just the front door could do with a shave as its a little tight. :lol:

The very very best grout is epoxy grout and is the only grout that is totally waterproof. The next best is a powered branded grout like Bal/Mapei or similar and if what most pro's use but will allow small water in, not normally a problem is whats behind has been done properly. Third type...