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Thanks so I don't need a primer or to treat the screed with anything before tiling then?

screed is sand/cement/fibres and has been down for about 5 weeks and has got another couple of weeks left before switching on the UFH which I'm going to warm up and then let cool down over a week before starting the tiling. screed is 80mm thick

Do I need to prime or seal the screed before I tile onto it and what do I prime or seal it with? Anything else that could be done to ensure the job can be done properly? Thanks

Thanks for the input everyone I bought the erbauer wet cutter and have just finished doing the shower (quite literally, I'm still covered in tile adhesive!) Its a brilliant bit of kit for the money, I can highly recommend it. I don't think I'll bother getting a manual cutter as I'll be a bit...

I am about to tile our new ensuite shower(8m2) with 600x300mm ceramic tiles approx 8mm thich. I will also be tiling our new kitchen floor when its ready in 2 months (30m2) with porcelain tiles that I think will be 900x450mm approx 8-10mm thick. Currently I have no tile cutter worthy of...

Thanks for all the advice. I went with northwest screeders in the end and I'm glad I did. They did a great job and I'm pleased with the result. Just got to wait for it to fully cure and dry out now

Everyone I have spoken too regarding this and all the info on various floor screeding websites says to go for the fibre mix screed as it helps prevent cracking and gives a better finish. I know you won't know what you get untill the job is finished which is why I'm asking for any...

plastic fibres to reinforce the screed. I know any builder can do it but was looking for someone who just does floors to hopefully obtain a flatter floor

I am struggling to find a few different companies to get quotes from. Can anyone recomend someone to screed over our ufh in the Stockport/Manchester area, preferably localish firms. We are after the sand/cement/fibre type. Thanks

is it something like this that you are referring to? http://www.screwfix.com/p/flexi-waste-straight-coupling-30-38mm/29220

Hi I need to join a chrome plated brass 32mm basin waste to 32mm solvent weld pipe. Do I have to use a compression joint or is there another way of doing it with a slimmer profile as the join will be in a cavity wall. thanks Jim

Thanks for all the advice. The big question now is do I buy the core bit and arbor for around £50 ish or do I just get the box of kit in Aldi for £30. Now I know the Aldi stuff isn't going to be great or last very well but seeing as I will only be drilling a total of about 8 holes is it worth...

I've got a number of basin/bath/sink and shower wastes to drill through victorian brick walls in the next 6 months or so and was thinking of getting a 52mm core bit as I could put 32mm or 40mm pipe through it. My current SDS is probably on its last legs and is not the best and was thinking of...

Definately

was thinking somthing like a plasterboard saw or you can use a hacksaw blade with a home made handle on it. I'm sure there is probably some sort of tool designed for this sort of job. TheVictorians suggestion is a good one

looks great. which I had the time to build something like that for my kids

I would try prying it off first after scraping out all the grout and as much adhesive as you can get at with a good quality scraper. If that doesn't work and the tile is mounted on ply or plasterboard or similar and there is enough space between the tiles, you could drill a few holes throught...

I am building the shower part of our new ensuite room, it is sitting in the end of the room surrounded by 3 wall which will be tiled with a glass sliding door to the front. One wall is solid brick with victorian plaster on it. One wall is victorian stud wall (lathe & plaster) and the other I am...

either buy a shorter flexi hose, move the isolating valve downwards or just use copper pipe instead of the flexi hose

well I pretty sure I know what I'm doing and I definately think its harder to fit a back to wall toilet than a normal one (ie more faff) There are other disadvantages, ie you can't check to make sure everything is seated properly etc...