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Firstly, I can’t see any way to get the riser out, there are no screws or nails, I guess its glued into the tread and stringers. Secondly, like I said, the floor ends under the riser, so there is nothing to fix a batten to anyway. You can see this in the second photo where I’m pushing the riser...

So the riser on the bottom step is not secured where it meets the chipboard floor. I can’t screw it into the floor because the chipboard ends right under the riser and there is a void. The riser flexes alot. How can I secure the riser so it doesn’t sound like its broken when it gets kicked?

Is there amy reason why I shouldnt just use big gobs of adhesive to attach the architrave to the timber/plaster directly? i’m not clear what the packing piece is for.

All good info, but my case is different, the casing is proud of the timber/plasterboard around the casing. So there is a void behind the architrave that needs filling with something solid I can fix the architrave to. Basically I overboarded the wall so i had to widen the door casing and now...

There is no excess timber, theres a void behind the architrave

Not really…the architrave fits ok on the frame between the hinges and the wall to the right, but theres a void behind the architrave that I need to fill with something so I can nail/glue the architrave to it (the frame is only 20mm wide so not much to nail to) . Some spacer type wedges or...

Hope you can see whats going on from these

How do I trim them when they’re stuck to the timber?

do you mean cut tapered strips off the side of a sheet?

how would I make the mdf strips?

maybe I didn't explain properly - the timber is jammed a bit wonky between the frame and the stud work, its not plumb or flush with the door frame, so I guess I need some kind of tapered material to fix the architrave to. I have a lot of small offcuts of wood I might be able to glue/pin to the...

Can I use PVA or wood glue for something like this? I can't see veneer pins more than 25mm so I might need panel pins I guess. Is caulk necessary or do I just set it flush to the wall?

I need something solid behind the architrave to nail/glue it to, do you mean strips of wood on the back? I'm not sure how to make tapered strips.

trouble is the timber isn't set in plumb so its set back more at the top than the bottom

I sanded it back pretty cleanly with an orbital sander. it feels solid, I guess the test comes when I bash it or kick it accidentally. I'm wondering if I should put another layer of Gardz or BIN over the easifill before painting?

I want to fix an 18mm quadrant on top of my stringers, and I'm not sure how to fix them in place. The stringer is currently mostly primed with Zinsser BIN. Should I glue or nail the molding to the stringer, should I also glue them to the wall with something, do I caulk it etc. Thanks!

So I have a door frame that is made of 20mm timber, and there is a gap next to it which is filled with a bit of timber , set back by 8mm at the top and 4mm at the bottom, and then some plasterboard another 12mm further back (see photo) . How can I build this up enough to fix the architrave to...

So the stringer of my stairs was buried in a wonky plasterboard wall, and I want to put quadrant molding on top of it. I decided to sand back the dot and dabbed wall through the skim and paper face of the plasterboard by 5mm total, then put expanding foam into the gaps by the stringer and...

I unscrewed this bit of plasterboard above a door so I could shim out the studs and straighten the board up. I managed to get it off in one piece without cracking it. Can I get away with screwing it back on or should I use a fresh piece of plasterboard? I have never skimmed so I thought I could...

Can anyone advise me on whether its ok to store these on the edge like this? I just put a straight edge on the long face of the finished door and it has a bow of up to about 3mm. Is that a lot?