Search results

I have a couple of solid core 44mm fire doors that won’t be fitted for a few months. One is finished and the other has a narrow glazed panel and hasnt been finished. I did have them vertical leant against the wall for about a month, but I just read that can warp them. I don’t have room to lay...

If there is a minimal gap between wall and countertop, is it feasible to tile down to the counter top with a decent seal at the edge? I don’t want the chipboard to blow up

The upstand looks straight with no wide bits of silicon. The walls were dot and dabbed last year and I think they're straight. Not sure if the counter top was cut straight though! Or maybe they're a standard width?

Up to the cupboard units, higher above the hob and sink. I was thinking it would look neater if I removed the skirting but not sure if that would cause problems

I need to tile a kitchen splashback. Currently the wall is painted with emulsion. The laminate worktop has some skirting at the wall, should I remove this before I tile? If so how to get a good waterproof seal where tile meets worktop? Thanks

.

What can I do about this? I have no idea where to start.. the builder who did this will not answer my calls. Is this a case of taking the ceiling down in all the rooms to remove insulation around the cables? I think I know where most of the main bits of cable are enclosed but I doubt I can...

What would happen if I used bonding to level this area?

That sound more difficult than applying bonding…what kind of packers and how would i pack the angled timber? Would using bonding cause problems?

I have an area above a door where the plasterboard is stepped because the stud framing was off. Can I just apply bonding over the shaded bit to level it ready it for skimming? Also , do I need to prepare the joins and edge at the ceiling with mesh tape or paper tape or can I just put bonding...

I was just going to dot and dab. Its not a huge area. I noticed one small wall in my house has been dot and dabbed over four times!

Because the existing board is not at right angles to the wall next to it, its an acute angle

Yes, thats because I haven't put extra timber on the header yet. It will be at the same level as the side. (The frame will then be parallel to the wall opposite, then i’m bringing the wall level to the frame)

I’m not sure yet, possibly. Yes the gap would be huge behind the architrave which is why I was considering dot and dabbing a piece of 9mm plasterboard on top of the existing board. Just not sure if it needs waterproof board

I moved the bathroom door frame which meant I need to build out part of the bathroom wall to be level to the frame. I’m thinking of renovating the bathroom soon - is it worth going ahead and overboarding the existing plasterboard with additional standard 9mm board to bring it flush to the frame...

Yes I know, but I can’t tell if there is a sealant

I can’t really tell if it is..maybe there is something black in there? So should a seal prevent the glass wobbling?

I bought this glazed FD30 fire door and the glass moves a bit and rattles . Is this normal?

Thanks . Too late though, I’ve done it with 90x45. I’m hoping because its a small area (1.3m x 2.4m ) the lack of air gap won’t be an issue. I suppose I could run something on top of the new joists before the boards but I’m pretty sick of being in the loft already

How do I cut the poly tops off?