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Thanks a lot Seco - really helped me out. I had no idea the end screws off as you describe !

We have an existing outside tap that has a female thread at the end and allows hose attachments to be screwed on. It isn't able to stop completely the flow of water on it's own and requires that it's dedicated internal stopcock be switched off inside. I would like to change this tap but every...

Just to say that with help we managed to get the boards upstairs. I checked my "DIY" book again and it did say the 150mm gap at the bottom is to allow for "expansion". Since we're doing with for soundproofing is it definitely the case that I can fit them with a much smaller gap (and perhaps seal...

One more (daft?) question. Since the boards will straddle 3 batons should I screw to the middle batton in the middle of the board as well as at the edges? Also, how frequent should I place screws and how far from the edge? Sorry, that's 3 questions but hopefully easy for those in the know...

Thanks a lot Richard. Really useful and to-the-point advice. Cheers !

Thanks for the replies. One other thing is why is the advice to leave a 15mm gap at the bottom of the wall? Is it to allow for expansion? Also any idea which drywall screws I should get? One look at screwfix for example, turns up about 50 different sizes and types ! To recap, its 15mm thick...

Just took delivery of 15mm thick accoustic plasterboard 1200x2400mm and realised to get these upstairs in tact is going to be very difficult due to their sheer size and weight. Is it acceptable to cut the boards in half across their width before moving them upstairs to be fitted? I don't...

I have something similar after bunging up the overflow and cold feed in the F+E tank to replace a lockshield valve. Its interesting that you reckon a blockage (or an airlock?) from the F+E coldfeed into the heating system could cause this? Why would that cause the problem? And what would the...

Thanks for your post but isn't thermal insulation nowhere near as dense as the accousitc stuff? Would the roll be anywhere near as dense as 45Kg/cm ? As for joists, I did mean joists. By infilling a 10cm wall with heavy material I was thinking the extra weight might be too much for the joists...

I'm hoping to improve the sound insulation on the existing stud partition walls. It looks like they have been constructed with batons 4 inches deep with plasterboard each side and a 4 inch gap of air. The noise is mostly light airbourne noise so was thinking to remove one side of the parition...

Thanks to both for your suggestions. JohnD: I followed most of what you said and it made sense except perhaps that the hosepipe is much narrower than the 28mm pipe so may as well tee into (say) a 22mm ? Also, I didn't understand how you would fit the 3/4 inch washing machine valve on the...

There is a stuck draincock on the return pipe close to the boiler. The pipe is 28mm. When I get around to draining down the system in the summer (to fix up a load of things) I want to replace this drain cock but I can't see where to buy a replacement from. Do I need to buy a...

I think I understand the principle that partially closing a valve like a stopcock doesn't reduce pressure only flow. However, we have an external stopcock that is about 100 feet away from the rising main in the kitchen where it enters the property. The external stopcock was recently fitted...

I ordered some 3/4" imperial olives and I got back these: (I'm not sure how to directly add a picuture but the link below shows them). There is a regular 22mm olive for refrence in the top left and the one I've not seen before in bottom right of pic...

Thanks all. So to be clear, when talking about 1/2" pipe, you need a 3/4" olive? (Why not a 1/2" olive for a 1/2" pipe) ?

Finally getting around to replacing an old stopcock on what I'm pretty sure is alkathene 1/2" pipe (it measures 21mm externally). Currently the cold feed goes into the existing old stopcock which connects to 15mm pipework. I want to buy an new olive for this pipe. Do you think I need to buy...

Many thanks Hugh.

Great advice about the straight swap - will do that in summer (if I can last that long). Re operation of valves etc, as far as I can tell, the pump+boiler is activated if _either_ of the two valves opens. So if HW stat calls for water and is on at the programmer, the pump&boiler will run...

Yes makes sense. In the meantime, I've removed the head (actuator) from the central-heating MV and left the copper valve itself in the open position. From what I can understand, that should mean the CH should work normally when the HW is off (CH stat turning pump off and on) and when the...