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Thanks for this, depending on wire length and how much room not sure if there is somewhere to fit this, as the wall is coming down. Will keep in mind with discussions.

HI, Has anyone used a recessed LED light strip? I'm currently selecting lighting for an area in a kitchen - its for an extension and a pitched roof with PIR. Instead of the usual LED spotlights I'd rather not punch into the PIR and ensure airtightness and maximum insulation performance. My...

Well, learn something everyday, cheers!

Is soldering within domestic even a thing? Surely that would break down over time with heat and current passing.

What is constituted as properly? If electrician, crimps both ends with crimp connector and tool, does this then need to be heat shrinked and can be put behind a wall instead of a junction box for maintenance etc.?

To confirm its' the circuit board nothing to do with the meter and there is an isolation before the meter therefore no requirement to pull the main fuse. The issue I have is that the CB is on a wall that is going to be removed, therefore I cannot have random junction boxes placed there, can...

Hi, I'm need to move my circuit board that supplies the house over to another wall - it needs moving maybe 30cm no more. My question is, can the electrician lengthen the cables that are already in situ or would this need a rewire? Thanks

Thanks Woody really interesting, I'll get this seen to then. It seems some builds will butt up to the new build assume hopefully with a wall starter to prevent the excessive vertical joint, but in this case I've not done that or toothed in enough. Thanks for the feedback.

Thanks, I get it. Just that angling the block seems to work? I started this, and if it's not the right way of working will take it down, but see photo this is the block angled from old on the left new on the right:

Ah see you modified the drawing woody so a literal step in, straight block work, beyond the spreader. Any reason it's not possible to angle brick work?

You are saying step in then from the 75mm to 100mm but bond with the new wall only? I started a couple of blocks and realised I'm angling the block to suit not stepping in and wondered if it's allowed in the regs, hence asking the question. You can't really tell from the picture but it's...

Apologies Woody. I'm effectively doing the same as this: (cbde picture) Knocking through, steel on stop of padstone, this is where the cavity was once, there is a gap, I need to brick it up. Suggested to tie the new to old brick work but one cavity is 75mm the other is 100mm. For strength...

It's not written into the detail just in a conversation best to bond using common bond new skin to old skin.

Engineer is MIA cdbe hence asking for advice on here. If anyone else has anything to offer please let me know, thanks.

The intention was to tooth in the blocks as it makes the wall stronger and work together better, especially when a steel is placed on top of the wall. It's possible I guess that wall starters could be used and the loads would still spread/distribute evenly. However the question is that, should...

Hi both, thanks for feedback. Just want to be clear, when we talk about a step, we are literally talking the bricks not aligning perfectly with a step sounds obvious? Is there anything wrong with slightly angling the bricks to make it flush? If you step this out and use a running brick bond...

HI, In the process of bricking up the internal wall for the cavity gap from old (75mm cavity) to new (100mm cavity extension), what's the best approach here? Step/stagger the bricks in straight whilst following either the 75mm or 100mm cavity or slightly angle the blocks so that they align with...

2:1 mortar check cheers Woody.

Beam is on acrows still woody

Is it right though to stick a steel plate under? (I know its allowed) I thought that this should be packed with slate underneath the pad and effectively it could sit on the pad right away with the slate taking the bearing. But genuine question what type of mix should this be?