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Nobody? :(

Thanks it worked brilliantly, took a few goes but was good in the end - a great trick to remember for the future. Would the same trick with the kitchen mixer work is say the airlock was with an upstairs hot water tap - or would that procedure be different, ie would i need to opening the...

you do not need to drain a whole CH system down to remove a radiator. if you start to open the radiator vents (start with the highest) then the air will force the water out of the system (will drain faster and fully) - also make sure your motorised valve is in the MANUAL OPEN position, so the...

Have got a flipping airlock in my hot water pipework (put new taps in kitchen-mixer type an hour ago) and now no water from the hot side - only splutters and then stops) - i know this is down to bad system design but is this a good way to get rid of it (before i do it i'd like your advice if...

type with 2 ridges on the inside?? what are these-rare types?? never seen them before!

if the spindle is loose / or you can gently loosen it, it may over time again have the same problem though if crud etc is stuck on the ball - you may need a new valve (not just the actuator). if as you say the srping is not working properley - then you'll need a new valve anyway.

Does anyone have any recommendations for a good probe thermometer (to test water temps and rad surface temperatures)? and clamp on thermomemeters - to test flow and return pipes from a boiler/to rads?Any links/recommendations would be great.

check all wiring in the wiring cntre is correct and tight (turn supply off first though/remove fuse). could be a 2 port motorised valve sticking in the open position (if you have them) (but with the stat down it shouldnt come on like you say) with the new programmer - did you remove...

Query: is an unvented hot water cylinder stat and thermal cut out pre-wired? Basically is the cyl stat wired up normall as per a normal 2 port valve (2 wires) and the thermal (overheat) cut out stat pre wired to the normal stat or are there different wires for this overheat stat also?

or the gate valve on the primaey return pipe is not open enough (try opening half way) - the htg can be stealing a lot of the heated water from the boiler

you will need to use a multimeter to test if the boiler stat has def gone

may be the thermostatic cartridge has failed are there any filters built into the shower inlets? the hot side may be scaled up/blocked up? is there a valve/gate valve on the hot supply? is this fully open?

This is rare but the pump can have a problem with its capicitor/internal electric workings which cause it to blow the 3amp fuse and the whole power to your heating (and hot water in your case)! if the test proves successful, you will need a new pump. most pumps are the same or very...

You adding cleaner to your header tank had nothing to do with it cutting out and not re-lighting-if your boiler has been overhteaing for a while now, then it would have cut out then. More than likely it was just a coincidence and the thermocouple has pited, as they do over years, and your...

I have had this before; are the nuts at the top of the towel rad fullt tight (ie the vent and plug ends? I had these not fully fully tight and micro leaks were causing air to be sucked in and the tops of the towel rad and the rad closest to it needed bleeding every few weeks).

Am trying to get the disc / name plate off the front of my shower mixer (round type), to get to the valve, as the seals have worn - water is dripping out underneath the front. But don't want to damage the face of it. ANy tips how I can remove this easily; i have tried a thin screwdriver but...

do you mean boiler would go to lockout on overheat if all trvs shut down and the bypass valve was stuck closed? providing thr boiler had an overheat cut out/stat. and that the rads will not get as hot as they should/did if the valve was fully open?

what would happen if a manual (gate vale type) bypass was fully closed.... or fully open ... would it be dangerous

always check first power to the connection unit to the heater, then the fuse in the connection unit (near to the heater). then check the power to the timer/programmer. if all are gd, then the heater is faulty.

they are not touching each other inside the hot water tank are they? this could cause them to burn out very quickly.