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It is definitely not supported by anything other than being buried into the brickwork at one side and nailed to the joists across to the other side where it's just nailed and doesn't do into the brickwork at the other side Also the previous owners were my parents who had the attic converted...

I also forgot to mention I am not trying to make the space into anything other than sticking some boards down to store stuff in a cupboard space If the timber was running strand I'd just box over it and work around it but the way it's laying makes that nearly impossible If I raise the...

Iv just checked it seems to be nailed to the joists but only secured to the brickwork at one end Does that mean it can't/shouldn't be removed? Iv tried to get a picture but you can't really see

Thing is at one end it is still into the brick And just straddled across Would it be safe to remove?

After a bit of advice. Not sure if this is the right section or not I am building some cupboard starage into a already converted attic room Everything is fine and sorted but there seems to be an unexplainable 3x2 sat across the roof joists at an angle which will make boarding the floor...

Thanks for the reply I did actually think of that stuff but couldn't really make my mind up if it would look naff or not

Moved on to stage two of creating some cupboard space into a already converted loft (haven't a clue why there was no thought about storage) I have made an ideal opening to get a couple of doors in to give full access to the whole of one side of the unutilised space My question is...

Why not drill, plug and screw? I'm sure the old skool way the wooden noggins were in the mortar joints so maybe have a look see if they are still there

All sorted Cut sill back with a chisel past the wall just enough so I can get a bit of mesh in to patch up with plaster Thanks for the tips Next stage putting cupboard storage in which is quite tricky but that's for another day/thread

Top man you've just given me an idea the direction of the grain is in my favour for using a chisel If I can get it back past the wall I can fix a thin slither of plasterboard on to patch and make good Thus hiding the cill underneath and making it look like the original only higher!! Or if...

Heres a pic (The plastering's not my work!!!!) The gap doesn't look that much in the pic but in person it is

Ledge/sill/cill all the same to me lol I did think about trimming flush to wall but didn't know what tool was best to use as there is no chance I'll get a hand saw/jigsaw or router in as the sloping ceiling joins to it When you mention an "apron" to the front can you expand a little...

Just replaced a rotten window in the attic (dorma) As with everything UPVC when the window came in was the exact height Anyway I have fitted the window without issue but to get the window in properly meant i have had to sit it on a 2" timber The problem I have is the window now sits...

Depends on the severity of damage and the size of the affected area If it's not a massive area say 1-2 sqm then might get away with cutting the bad section out re board that section patch in and re skim the whole ceiling Or it may need to all be overboarded A good spread will be able to...

Thanks buddy Think I'm armed with the right info and have a mental map how to tackle this so hopefully issues should be minimal Last question is there any tips to appropriately dry a horizontal pipe ready for re fit (solder) or is it the old fashion rag job

Cheers Andy What about the refill? Just open filling loop?

Oh I know this now Came on recommendation from a friend as well Was a cheap job so what can you really expect!! Now to the fun part! Is there a certain procedure to draining and refilling my combi which is (wait for it) a gloworm 24cxi

Dam it Trv head comes of lovely plenty of room to get washer out BUT the bloody drain valve is in the way!! Grr Really didn't want to have to cut and re solder pipes and drain the system but looks like I may have to