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Thanks, I'm assuming that would work if the flue was connected to the top of the fire box. Ours is a rear flue with 90 degree bend upwards.

We had a stove fitted by heats approved installer some time ago. (Aga little wenlock se) I've just had the chimney sweep around to clean but he wasn't able to do anything because he said there was access on the flue pipe. Am I missing something or should be getting onto the installer to sort...

Thanks for all the replies. I'm wondering a couple of things: 1. Is there any reason not to mix with a cement mixer? They're a lot cheaper on ebay than paddle mixers. 2. is it worth levelling in 2 layers to allow more room (time) for error? or best to do the lot in one go Cheers

also...with the wickes stuff i reckon i'd need approx 10 bags which is quite expensive compared with sand/cement...any advice on sand/cement?

Thanks, the Wickes stuff looks good. Any tips on getting a whole floor level within the working time. How well does it level itself? i was thinking of having 1 person constantly mix a bag at a time while the spreads across the floor but does it need a floated finish? cheers

Hopefully someone can help?.... Floor area = 3mx4m I've discovered that the concrete floor is very uneven. I've put a straight edge from one end to the other and it would appear that the middle dips down 2cm . I want to lay new laminate ontop but am worried that the difference in height will...

I guess another solution might be to remove the concrete carefully and hope that the old tile floor that i think is underneath is reasonable nick and use this...but it could be an expensive gamble!?

I've just spoken to a builder about levelling the floor off and he's doubtful how successful this would be as the floor is fairly uneven from one end to the other. He's suggested ripping up the concrete, digging out, making a new sub base then insulating and using weyroc boards to build what...

cheers, Its mostly smooth, but there are a couple of small areas (30cm approx) where the surface screed has blown. i've pulled this up to expose rough concrete below. The reason i don't think there's a dpm is that i cant see anything at the edges of the floor. Along one edge there is a 2inch...

Ta for the replies so far... The floor is probably approx 30yrs old (just guessing) and i'm going to be putting laminate ontop.

It's an old sandstone property with concreted floors so I suspect the floors are forcing moisture towards the walls. Also, one wall has a slightly higher exterior ground level which is difficult to change so probably some penetrating damp there.

I've just pulled up the old laminate flooring and underlay to discover that the concrete floor beneath is very uneven with a few blown sections in the top screed. The floor is a bit of a hotchpotch but I can't see any Dpm. In the ideal world I should probably replace the entire slab or better...

I've recently gutted what is going to be my dining room. I'm planning on putTing timber studs in with insulation between and plasterboard ontop. The solid sandstone walls have some damp at floor level, so I was going to leave a small gap behind studs and vent the skirting boards. Should I also...

I was just looking at some doors on door deals.co.uk and spotted this statement: It is an unfortunate fact that exterior Oak doors and frames, from whichever supplier, are not suitable for exposure to direct rain and hot sun and therfore must be sheltered in some form, a porch or canopy...

Thanks for all the replies, glad it's not just me that thinks its a bad job then. Really frustrating! I'll have to take it back up with the builder but I suspect I'll get some fob off response. Why is it so hard to find good tradesmen. I went for one that is member of fmb assuming the quality...

Thanks for the replies. I took this up with the fitter who said he used a new router bit but as the laminate was thin, found it hard to get a straight edge. The worktop is By Wren, anyone else had issues with these? Cheers

Thanks for the replies...couple more photos as requested. Thinking of complaining to my builder...any thoughts?

I've just had my new kitchen installed but as you can see from the photo, the cut edges are slightly ragged which makes the finish look slightly tired. Is this what I should expect? Or should I be complaining to my builder? Thanks for any advice [/img]