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Whats wrong with them? :lol: I've read a few posts in the job advert thread among others which take a negative view on building site plumbers. Just curious why this is.

A bit of both. Obviously it helps the pipe enter the fitting easier and prevents dislodging the rubber but it does create a better seal IME.

It can be done as long as it has a fall and its within the permissable length allowed for the pipe size. What is the distance and what size pipe?

Is the shower in between the stack and the bath? Just trying to understand if the water is backfalling into the shower.

If its a male to female iron type fitting I would redo the joint with more PTFE or even better buy some Loctite 55. If its a compression fitting then I would wrap a bit of PTFE around the olive or if you have some jointing compound use that. I wouldn't advise on using silicone to seal leaks. :lol:

yes, you can put gas pipes in concrete floors. Just wrap the pipe in something that will prevent it from corroding. Denso tape is commonly used.

Not really a plumbing question but I work with a guy who recently registered with IGEM and CIPHE. He is a self employed contractor and has made some business cards and after his name he has used the letters "IGEM, MCIPHE RP". I laughed and thought it was a bit pretentious. I imagine a few people...

Actually not. If its a condense from the boiler then it will rot the metal pipe. If its an expansion valve/pressure relief valve then I can't see why not as long as you have an air gap.

I prefer the Bernzomatic TS7000 to the Rothenbergers. It costs less and it has a smaller snozzle/flame which is good to use in confined areas. http://www.farmhomesupplycenter.com/Trigger-Torch/M/B00008ZA0A.htm

Buy a new pan connector, take the toilet out and refit properly. You can reuse the old pan connector if you want but it might be a little chocolatey.

No. He needs to call a GAS ENGINEER. Not an installer. Installers are useless, they are just plumbers at the end of the day.

Recommended between 18-90mm per metre. All I'm getting at is make sure the fall is not too shallow or too steep. Maybe its already been suggested but why not go 40mm all the way instead of just from the second basin or at extra cost just go 2" all the way. I'd personally go for the...

Yes. So long as it is installed properly with the correct fall, can't see why it should. I've seen a whole flat plumbed into a single 2" pipe without any problems and you're only emptying 2 basins into it.

If you really want to use the chrome traps then to be safe use 2" pipe. A bit OTT but would be worth it.

Would that be a gas engineer or a different type of engineer...? :lol:

You need a two port valve for the hot water side on an indirect unvented cylinder so you might as well go for the S plan.

2. Pan connector, screws/plugs, lube, mastic. cant think of anything else 3. You should have an isolation valve before a float valve so I'd put one in. Cut the pipe anywhere you want and use flexi hose if you wish. The joints dont need to be soldered/welded. 4. Tile it first, put the pan...

I would use 40mm where they meet. inline trap http://www.google.co.uk/products?q=hepvo+valve&oe=utf-8&rls=org.mozilla:en-GB:official&client=firefox-a&um=1&ie=UTF-8&ei=1sSOS4beI82TjAfypMyPCw&sa=X&oi=product_result_group&ct=title&resnum=1&ved=0CBEQrQQwAA running trap...

I didnt look at the picture when i replies, it didnt go well with my small screen. I've resized it and it doesnt look like two tubes flush system so ignore my previous post. Probably stating the obvious, your problem appears to be the valve isnt fully closing after flushing. Check for...

Are there two small tubes going from the flush buttons to the valve? If there is, check if there is any water trapped in the tubes. You need to get rid of any water in the tubes. This stops the valve sitting back down. Does that make sense? :lol: