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The jambs have been rendered, yes. The soffits go right upto the windows so there is no reveal head there, only the front door. He's fitted a bell cast above the front door and it looks very smart. Only the lintel and 20mm of overhanging blockwork is now exposed.

Our plasterer/renderer has said he won't render the circa 50mm reveal/lintel above the front door as over time with the door slamming this is likely to crack/fall off and advised that in his experience a uPVC trim is always the best solution. First I've heard of this, could anyone advise?

Is there any need for PVA'ing the walls first to help control the suction? How thick should the scratch coat be and should it be rock hard, just like the top coat? (i.e. the original scratch coat was VERY sandy, but that may be due to the 1:6 mix)

Well things have got worse with more cracks appearing and some previously sound areas now also blowing. Looks like we need to start from scratch. What is the correct 'prep' work prior to the scratch coat being applied and after the scratch coat but before the top coat?

What's the best remedy for this. Are the currently 'sound' areas of render at risk of eventually debonding from the blocks and therefore everything needs to come off? Or can we just tap the wall and knock off those areas which sound hollow or have already cracked? If there is little point in...

Our new extension was constructed from Plasmor Fibolite's and rendered 1:1:6 (cement : lime : plastering sand and waterproofer). The scratch coat was applied two weeks prior to the top coat which was applied last Friday. 48 hours later, approximately 1/3rd of the total area has blown with long...

We have built our gutter between two roofs and are now ready to fibreglass the OSB. Is the correct way to bandage the joint between the base of the gutter and the upstands (at 35 degree angles), or should we nail a 'D260 wall fillet' trim to both the base and upstand and glass the entire trim...

Would I need a hip iron if the starter hip was mechanically fixed as per a dry hip system (i.e. fixing in the joint and drilled/screwed through the center)? Isn't the hip iron there to prevent the entire line of hips from sliding where they are only bedded?

They are to match Marley Acme Heather plain tiles. The third round hips cost under £3, it's just the end tiles which are insanely expensive!

I'll be installing a new dry ridge and hips. Ridge end caps are pretty easy to come by and inexpensive. However, there doesn't seem to be an end cap for hips, only end hip tiles which run at around £35 each! What's the next best alternative to closing the hip above the gutter short of paying...

Could anyone offer any advice please?

please delete.

I will be tiling our roof soon (plain clay tiles) which will require a new ridge, hips, valleys and a bonding/secret gutter to connect with our neighbour's roof. I'm keen to use dry/grp systems for everything. Every manufacturer (sandtoft, redland, marley, etc.) offers their own similar...

Great find! Out of interest, what makes these plain tiles guaranteed to a lower pitch than others?

They don't have a sandfaced style.

Our main roof is a 37 degree pitch and covered with plain sandfaced clay tiles. Our large extension will have a 30 degree pitch. Will this be a too shallow pitch for us to use reclaimed plain tiles to match the existing roof? If so, what recommendations are there for modern clay/concrete...

They are already in place on footings. The slab is being poured around them.

We will be pouring our concrete slab over Celotex soon and wondering whether we need any contraction (or expansion) joints? The entire floor area is approximately 9m x 9m, with two load bearing walls marking of a corner (as pictured). Do we need any joints, or is a straight pour going to be fine...