Kev
Tried that last night - had no discernable effect. The 3 way valve is only about 3 months old - I think its ok.
So the boiler is still firing up every minute or so for about 20 seconds and kettling before switching off. The rads aren't getting that warm.
I tried moving the pump to a...
I don't have to bleed the radiators at all. (I've tried but theres no air).
The situation now is:
CH+HW. Noisy. Kettling. Boiler fires up about once a minute, for about 20 secs a time.
Haven't touched the bypass.
Boiler set on low, pump on medium.
Rads not getting very hot.
Any...
Guys
A simple question. :shock:
Can you cause much damage from adding too much sludge remover?
I added some (can't remember the type, got it from B&Q, small triangular bottle - something"Restorer"), then someone recommended to me some Sentinel X400 as being much better.
So I want to...
Excellent stuff - thank you very much for the ideas.
Keego - I'll try that when I get back. nice one.
Felix - the system was working fine for about 4 years since I moved in - so not sure therefore if its a TRV on the wrong end of a rad. However, one of the TRVs is spinning freely and has...
OK
Couldn't find a HW bleed.
3 way valve is making all the right noises and the boiler is staying lit long enough for me too see that the right side of it is getting hot for the right setting.
When i first switched it on having been off all day - the F&E vent made a massive racket for a...
hmm so a bleed for the HW as well as all the rads.
Last thing I did after bleeding the upstairs rads after refilling was to bleed the pump - but that wouldn't have necessarily bled the HW circuit would it..
Where might a HW bleed be?
Anyway - if the worst comes to the worst I can always...
Kev
When I refilled I had the the CH/HW switched to "off" so the pump wasn't spinning.
Not sure what position that means the 3 way valve would have been in (its "default off"? the "last known good"?)
Should I have fettled the manual switch on the side of the 3 way valve?
if so - what...
kev
Not sure. Will check when I get home - hopefully the post won't have died by then...
From memory:
There are no valves under the boiler (a Thorn Apollo) - it runs from the kitchen up to an attic room where the pump / 3 way valve / F&E tank is.
All the valves up there there are...
Hiya guys
Replaced a pump last night (with some help from a plumber with a blowtorch).
I then drained the system from the draincock (opening rads on the way down), added some Fernox or equivalent to the empty F&E tank, and refilled.
Bled the radiators as the water came back up, bled the...
thanks for responding by the way - realise you aren't getting paid for this.
tried the black nut - yes when its pulled out all the way I can twist the impellor a bit - it jams occasionally, once every couple of revolutions.
:idea: I guess the fact its turning at all means its not crud...
Kevplumb
Its quite new..about 6 weeks old.. :(
Its definately knackered if it blows a fuse?
I thought maybe the impellor was jammed somehow..
Mind you - you = expert, me = novice
What are the other reasons for these things dying? There is a small leak above the pump - (rotate...
Got one of these.
Blew a fuse recently, so suspect impellor has crud in it.
What is best way to clean? Tried removing motor housing using the 2 alan key screws- used considerable force, leverage, hammer.. and it wouldn't budge!
ok :?
have drained the system anyway.
just wanted to check the impellor in the pump before refilling/
The pump is a pretty standard 3 speed one - made by Circulating Pumps Ltd. The motor housing is helpd onto the impellor housing by 2 alan key screws - one at each corner.
They are...
ok..masona and kevplumb..
air in the F&E tank. Yes - its got an open top. Its was probably meant as a joke but difficult to laugh with ice encrusted on vocal chords.
FLushing it out = emergency services if I try and do it myself I suspect.
Plumber time. Thanks for your help though.
Yes there is - dipped a hammer in there (! its up high - little space between roof and tank) and it is about half full. Full of crud though - the hammer came out covered in cak.
breezer. You are right. The system is falling apart.
I am falling apart with it..
The boiler has been playing up for a bit (loud banging - shut off). Lately I have been able to get it working for 2 week periods by lifting some floorboards upstairs and giving the pipees a bit of a shake...
Quite possibly - the plumber that fitted it did it for cash - its definately brand new but not sure where the docs are.
I don't think the pump has had a mechanical failure. I think theres crud due to my aging and failing system (low water content - Thorn Apollo which is also shutting off...
thanks breezer.
Ok - so I've isolated the water flow. Whats the best way of taking the pump apart? Should I use an alan key to remove the front motor section? (Sorry don't have a pic but assume they all look the same)..
Woke up this morning to no CH/HW and the display on my 20 yr old Potterton EP 2000 was blank.
So I checked the electrics - all fine.
Changed the main fuse to the pump / 3 way valve / control box and the display came back on.
Switched it to 24 to try and get a response from the system...