Search results

Will only ever be for night time reading.

I do like the design of the arm though

This is the style I had in mind... just don't want a big ugly trailing lead connecting into an even uglier standard socket! Obviously the light would need its own switch integrated in to the base plate. https://www.ikea.com/gb/en/p/naevlinge-led-work-lamp-white-90404921/

Hi, We have a void behind our bed so I'm planning to put some swing arm lights there. Instead of the usual wall mounted style with a big bulky base unit to house the wiring connections, can you get totally flush/slimline ones that connect in to some sort of flush backbox, which would house the...

...and aesthetically get a cooker isolation only one

I did this a few years ago. I had another (smaller) CU put in the shed, feeding sockets and lights from there.

Of course! I always nick the fuse out of the plug top.

Just to confirm, the SFCU is low down in the AV unit, and the flex outlet is behind the TV (wires chased in wall). The TV is wired into the flex outlet, so if I just changed the SFCU for a socket, I wouldn't be able to plug the TV into it without having the wire dangle down in front of...

Hi, Just replaced my TV and the instructions say to not cut the plug off - though they don't actually state doing so will void the warranty. My previous TV (13 years old!) didn't have such requirements so when I wall mounted it I used an easily accessible SFCU with a flex outlet behind the TV...

Do you mean 10.8v Impact? I've seen Bosch do a dual Driver/Wrench in their Impact range - haven't seen anyone else with that offering. You're probably right about not needing an impact but my current Bosch combi I've always had to pre-drill for stud work/framing etc., which I'd want to avoid...

That looks pretty neat! Shame about flex but not a deal-breaker by any stretch. Thanks

My current combi is Bosch Pro range from 2011 and is only now on its last legs. Except the Makita circular saw all the other stuff is shed and which I'm looking to replace tool-by-tool.

I'm not bound to 'sets' and would happily consider individual products and even manufacturers. It probably does make sense to stick to the same though especially with cordless so I can interchange the batteries. But basically, get corded SDS and cordless combi and impact. I assume the 6 years...

Thanks. The current hole in the ceiling is just a smidge more than enough to get the 3 T+E through, and unfortunately it’s both floors so won’t have access from above for the downstairs ones. I think those WAGO connecters are probably too big, as the required hole may interfere with the...

Hi, I have loop in at the light fitting, not the switch. I also have bar spots with a rather small base so when I need to take the light fitting down for decorating it's a pain to put back up keeping the cables tucked away inside safe. Can you get something a bit more streamlined than your...

Thanks. I've always preferred Makita for the power saws (I have their magnesium base cabled circular saw and it's incredibly light and accurate). I'd only get cordless for the drills - I wouldn't have the continuous use for the SDS to worry about batteries, I don't think! :)

Hi, Looking for a new drill set: combi, impact, SDS. All my stuff is knackered. Preferably cordless. I'd say mainly light duty, with the occasional heavy duty. Advanced DIY'er rather than trade. Is this way overkill...

Thanks. It's still under warranty so I'll ring Ideal. I totally drained down the system and turned the boiler off - it was stuck on 1.5bar. It's not 'bouncing' any more at least.

Hi, Ideal Logic+ 35 Is this a DIY job? My one 'bounces' around 1.5 bar. Woke up this morning to 'overheat lockout' | fill to 1.0 bar | bleed radiators | check valves | reset boiler | contact installer If I excessively bleed rad it never goes below 1.4ish bar so conscious about not over...

Actually the one in the link has a weird connector on the pipe end - what is that? Push fit?