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Just remembered my towel rad has these (non-TRV) valves (took the cover off) - it's the same one both sides. Is the one in link the right replacement? I assume I can leave the original one the other side as the lockshield...

Thanks. If it makes a difference I have no interest in what can be done at the stat itself and would prefer it looks plain Jane to not stand out on the wall it's on!

That's the thing. My boiler is in the loft so getting wires anywhere but the loft will be more work than its worth. I've always understood the best practice is to have stats in the hallway (where I have no power at all) - is that the case with smart ones? Only easy place would be down the only...

Hi, I currently have a Honeywell CM927 which runs totally on batteries (and they last for ages). The display is on its way out so I'm looking at replacing it. From what I have read so far, only the Tado offers the same 'totally wires free' install I have with CM927. Is that true? I absolutely...

It was all a bit of bodge when it was done (before I bought the house) so down 2 edges I have those edging stone things @jimlad mentioned but not the last edge which meets the lawn... they actually used a hammer/chisel combo, very badly, to cut pavers in half so they're all jagged-edged and some...

Yeah that's what I thought but if you look at this one the imagery makes it look flush with the plate! Well to me anyway! https://www.e-hardware.co.uk/hook-and-band-hinges.html

Just looking at h/b hinges. Is there any functional difference between flat and cranked ones? Or is it just cosmetic (think I prefer cranked).

That's a good tip. Thanks

Yeah, that's right. They're not really solider course though; they follow the same direction as the rest of them just in a different colour.

I was wondering if a sort of protruded/offset butt hinge existed, so that the hinge provides the spacing.

Oh yeah, those hook and band ones look much better than the triangle ones. Thanks for the offer though John. Can you get bolts that can be operated from either side - ideally with the bolt inside the door (my gate is z-framed with T&G both sides). I'm not the 'lift up latches' biggest fan.

Hi, I'd rather not have the traditional face-fixed hinges or bolts/latches. Do these exists for garden gates? Basically, normal internal door ironmongery for outside. Thanks

Hi, I need some inspiration! Our driveway is 2/3 paving 1/3 grass. I've just relaid about 4 courses because where it meets the grass it had all sunk massively. The edge pavers have nothing holding/locking them in. I'm going to dig out about 2 inches worth of grass because I don't want it near...

Hi, Anyone done/have guidance on this? Up until now I have to do 35 hours per week (excluding breaks) over 5 days. I get 30 days holiday plus the bank holidays, so 38 total. I'm trying out compressed hours. I'll be doing 8am-6pm Monday to Thursday, so trying to recalc holiday, and what happens...

My downlights are class 2 too, with a 2 terminal terminal block. There is literally no where for an earth conductor to sit, other than outside the terminal block in a floating additional terminal block. That means I'd have to pull the earth conductor back through the sheathing, or just cut it...

Yeah I meant over-sleeve it, like you do with switch-lives.

Is the earth core in flex slightly smaller like in T+E? If I uprated to 1.5mm 3-core flex could I sleeve the earth core?!!!!!!!!! I know I could - so really asking how frowned upon that would be :)

The distance from the fan isolator to the fan is like 1m, so no worries replacing it if class 1 fan is ever used :) I just hate the idea of having something left 'floating' around. I'm currently using 3-core+E flat (with E cut back) as I had some left. I'll take a pic tomorrow.

Hey, Does this exist? My bathroom fan has no earth terminal (class 2), and the connector block doesn't have space for a terminal block left hanging around. It needs 3 wires: neutral, switch live, run-on timer live. All are fed from a fan isolator. My CU has 6A breakers (RCBOs) with 1mm cable...

My ceiling light is a multi-spot fixture :) My ceiling light matches the rest of the house (all rooms the same) so if I change, I don't want a different looking multi-spot light :). I'm changing as although the existing light is IP44 rated, it's not weathered well at all in that environment...