Smart Thermostats - powering them

[ldoodle]

Hi,

I currently have a Honeywell CM927 which runs totally on batteries (and they last for ages).

The display is on its way out so I'm looking at replacing it. From what I have read so far, only the Tado offers the same 'totally wires free' install I have with CM927.

Is that true? I absolutely don't want a trailing lead from a socket up the wall for something like the Nest (I have no shelves above a socket at the recommended height 0.75-1m from the floor anyway - who the hell does!!)

Thanks

 

[muggles]

AFAIR Tado needs power too, although I've only fitted one so I may be mis-remembering. Thought it was a hateful thing to operate, not at all intuitive, hence not fitting another.

I think Hive is battery only, but it's not very smart.

Most people who don't have existing thermostat wires simply stand their thermostat on a sideboard or similar piece of furniture. Said furniture then hides the cable. Alternatively, it may be possible to run a new cable from your boiler or airing cupboard to a suitable thermostat location in a discrete manner

 

[stem]

There's no such thing as 'totally wire free'. Unless you have a boiler with a thermostat receiver built in by the manufacturer, but even then, there will be some electrical connections inside the boiler.

With other proprietary products, there will have to be an electrical connection at some point to either the boiler, or a motorised valve. This is usually a wired receiver, as is the case with your existing Honeywell CM927 which has a BDR91 receiver. (The Tado thermostat is battery operated, but there will either be wires connected to the thermostat itself, or the Extension Kit)

So, whilst the receivers are wired, some do have thermostats that are wireless.

The Hive thermostat is battery powered and communicates with its receiver wirelessly.

as does the Drayton Wiser

The Nest thermostat requires a 12v supply, but that doesn't mean a trailing lead from a PSU in a socket. It can be wired back to the Heat link which has a built in power supply for it, and because it's only 12v, security alarm cable is adequate meaning that it's easier to conceal or if, not a small groove in the wall which can be filled in afterwards is all that is required.

 

[fezster]

The hive thermostat runs on batteries, so can be placed anywhere.

The hive receiver goes in place of your existing programmer and connects wirelessly to the thermostat (and to the hub, which needs to be plugged into your router).

I was extremely disappointed to find the hive thermostat switches off its display after 5 seconds. All the marketing and literature shows the display illuminated, and it looks very nice. But you can't actually see it unless you press a button, which is incredibly annoying. I like to look at the temperature and whether the heating is on when I walk past the thermostat. They have no plans to change it either, citing battery life as the issue.

I've now gone over to a nest 3rd gen instead, which is hardwired for power, and has a sensor which switches it on when you are near it.

 

[ldoodle]

That's the thing. My boiler is in the loft so getting wires anywhere but the loft will be more work than its worth. I've always understood the best practice is to have stats in the hallway (where I have no power at all) - is that the case with smart ones? Only easy place would be down the only stud wall in the house at the top of the stairs.

Don't have a sideboard for one to sit on - the closest thing I have is the AV unit.

My house is very minimalist including sockets - they come second only to radiators in the fugly competition.

I read the this morning that the Tado stat is battery. The link box to the boiler is hard-wired. When I say 'wire free' I mean the stat part only.

 

[stem]

In that case, 3 of the 4 most popular Smart Thermostats will fit the bill for you then. Hive, Wiser, & Tado have wire free connection. Nest does not.

 

[ldoodle]

Thanks. If it makes a difference I have no interest in what can be done at the stat itself and would prefer it looks plain Jane to not stand out on the wall it's on!

 

[ldoodle]

Just remembered my towel rad has these (non-TRV) valves (took the cover off) - it's the same one both sides. Is the one in link the right replacement? I assume I can leave the original one the other side as the lockshield?

https://www.screwfix.com/p/pegler-v...SpXJikdoipXvkf-Bx3RoCscsQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

[ldoodle]

Actually the one in the link has a weird connector on the pipe end - what is that? Push fit?