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For minor repairs, Polyfilla?

Thanks for that suggestion. Tackling the job this afternoon! I built the wall to allow space for the curved bottom edge of some skirting quarry tiles (to match existing on the other two sides) so didn't want the tiling to overhang the top of said quarry tiles too much - but you're right: a few...

Dog can already open the door, if it's ajar. But it's the back door, and we're losing all the expensive heat from the Aga. She's used to being able to go out when she wants/needs to, so we can't shut the door when we're not around. Dogflap seems a good solution. Would be easy if it wasn't a...

Yes, has to be tiles. Basically I built a breeze block partition to separate a tiled shower area from the rest of a utility room, replacing a shoddy pair of louvred doors. For years, put up with the access gap just being curtained off, but have finally made and fitted a door, and want to tile...

Given that I pretty much have to, due to a badly designed job (no allowance was made for dry lining or the thickness of plaster when the wall was built) - are there any extra considerations I'll need to make? Will I be able to compensate for irregularities in the walling by using extra tiling...

Is it OK to do this? i.e. not putting on a base coat or top coat of plaster first?

True, but I was thinking of building up the other edges of the door flap with wood of the same thickness as the brace, so it would be possible to have the flap half on and half off the brace. And also maybe widen the brace with an extra but of wood on the left hand side. (Tricky, perhaps, since...

Well, they wouldn't really be "ledged and braced" doors if they're in mdf, would they? :unsure: Just plank effect. The two nearby doors are proper l&b doors, so this has to be right. And anyway, thanks for the suggestion, but no good suggesting routered mdf now! As I originally said, I've...

"More screws the stronger it will be. Just nailed and glued mine." Yes, indeed. I was worried about shrinkage/expansion so fastening in the centres only, made sense. But I may have been over-influenced by an outside project I've just finished: cladding a wooden jack-leg cabin with boards and...

I've nearly finished making one of these,using t&g v channel 19mm floorboards; ledges and braces from 21mm floorboarding with the t&g planed off, obviously.(I wanted a bit thicker, but disappointingly couldn't buy the small quantity I needed) - I'm screwing this together, not clinch nailing...

Not sure. It's an old kiln. We turn it up manually - medium - high - then knock it down again after a certain amount of time. Yes Yes; it's governed by a 30 amp fuse I don't know the actual square mm, but the cable itself seems substantial - 12mm across - similar to what I've seen used for...

Kiln: 6Kw Workshop 1: fluorescent light fittings; 100w worklight; 2 2Kw heaters; sewing machine. Workshop 2: fluorescent light fittings; 150w worklight; 2 kw heater; 1500w mitre saw; other power tools (but nothing used simultaneously)

Well, I pondered that today as well. I'm pretty sure we won't be stacking another cabin on top of this one, so we won't need the top of the jack-legs for that...and their only other function would be for attaching chains should we ever want to move the cabin and need to crane it. But that seems...

That's a thought, but the weakness could be the overlap between the little bit of roofing material currently trapped under the aluminium and any extension stuff. Also, not sure I'd want the guttering that far out all the way along. Might have to run guttering between the upstands, with separate...

In the light of the above suggestions, and after further pondering from the top of the step-ladders, I'm wondering about running some flexible material- plastic strip or maybe butyl from just underneath the aluminium gutter, or behind it if possible, so that it falls into new mini guttering. And...

Easier than I thought it would be, to add a picture, that is! The guttering remains more of a problem....

I'd like to come across as knowing what I'm after, when I engage one. And I can't get rid of the kiln, as my wife would like to keep it for the time being.

We have a 30 amp circuit serving a pottery kiln housed in the attached garage. It is currently used very infrequently. We also have a need to run electricity to a couple of workshops in the garden. Could we extend that circuit to the workshops, and promise ourselves never to fire the kiln whilst...

That's a great solution!

In preparing to take the photo, I realised that if the flap wasn't placed in the centre of the door, as I'd originally envisaged, it might be possible to avoid cutting through the whole of the brace. I guess the nearer I take it to the edge of the door, then there would be room to reinforce the...