Tiling straight onto breeze block wall

jso

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Is it OK to do this? i.e. not putting on a base coat or top coat of plaster first?
 
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It would probably work but I’ve never seen it done in the twenty years I’ve been building. But why would you want to ?? It’s easy to dryline the wall then you have a perfect wall. The tilling would be easier on that wall as well. Fred
 

jso

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Given that I pretty much have to, due to a badly designed job (no allowance was made for dry lining or the thickness of plaster when the wall was built) - are there any extra considerations I'll need to make? Will I be able to compensate for irregularities in the walling by using extra tiling adhesive in one or two places?
 
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Considering that. Dose it have to be tiles ?? Because you can now get large format wall boards. Theses are 12mm thick and are intended to be fixed direct to the wall. There are very much on trend now and look amazing. Fred
 

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Yes, has to be tiles. Basically I built a breeze block partition to separate a tiled shower area from the rest of a utility room, replacing a shoddy pair of louvred doors. For years, put up with the access gap just being curtained off, but have finally made and fitted a door, and want to tile the inside of the wall to finish the job.
Already got the matching tiles. But didn't allow for the wall being plastered or dry lined when I built it, so not sure how successful the tiling will be.
 
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If there are uneven patches then a coat of plaster will tidy it and is much easier than trying to build up tile cement which is not intended for gap filling. Can’t see a few mm of plaster being a problem.Or a 6mm hardy backer board.
 
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jso

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Thanks for that suggestion. Tackling the job this afternoon! I built the wall to allow space for the curved bottom edge of some skirting quarry tiles (to match existing on the other two sides) so didn't want the tiling to overhang the top of said quarry tiles too much - but you're right: a few mm of plaster wouldn't be a problem.
Top coat or browning/base coat?
 

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I answered my own question by using basecoat followed by multifinish, then tiled. Seems to be OK.
 
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Given that I pretty much have to, due to a badly designed job (no allowance was made for dry lining or the thickness of plaster when the wall was built) - are there any extra considerations I'll need to make? Will I be able to compensate for irregularities in the walling by using extra tiling adhesive in one or two places?

Who did the design? If it was a professional such as a chartered architect, you can claim against their insurance.

That could be even if you have rectified it yourself by now.
 
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I built a breeze block partition to separate a tiled shower area from the rest of a utility room, have finally made and fitted a door, and want to tile the inside of the wall to finish the job.
Already got the matching tiles. But didn't allow for the wall being plastered or dry lined when I built it, so not sure how successful the tiling will be.
Glad you sorted it - shame about not being able to use a shower board. Good luck with your DIY in 2018(y)
 
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