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Hi - thanks for your response but I think you've misread the problem? The (tap connector) fitting on the water supply will not reach the float valve tail, hence the need for a MI/FI extension fitting. Also, it was very difficult to manipulate the nut (on the tap connector) onto the threaded end...

Here's a photo, although I don't see what it adds to my original description? - especially as many of the problems lie within or are not readily appreciated without explanation. The MI/FI extension piece is shown on top of the cistern but I'm sure all plumbers are familiar with this fitting...

My toilet cistern is mains fed but takes several minutes to refill so I decided to change the float valve. This should have been a 10 minute job but I hit problems which were sod's law and Catch 22 rolled into one. The existing float valve is a Part 2 type so I bought a Part 2 replacement. The...

Hi - Actually it's neither a) nor b)! Partly more ambiguity on my part - the room in question is a fairly small kitchen about 9'6" x 6'6" (apologies for Imperial units) with a small alcove at one end. The existing light is actually a 4-way bar light but only has a single connection as mentioned...

Thanks for all the advice and comments. I apologise for any ambiguity but I was simply trying to describe my existing situation. Surely one of the wires going to the light fitting is the switch return? - and either goes off to a junction box (which I can't see) and thence to the light switch, or...

Hi - I have a ceiling light with just one twin and earth cable connected to it - there is no ceiling rose or junction box nearby. I assume this cable is the neutral and switch return wires and that the red wire is the switch return. I wish to install 6 downlighters and intend to loop this cable...

I'm reading elsewhere that people are getting peed off with downlights - my fault for being behind the times! But at least I'm thinking LEDs!

Thanks for all the info. Sorry, the earth wire IS connected to the block. The switch is 2-gang and the second switch is to an adjacent room, the other switch only turns on the light in question (so the live feed could be here as Iggifer suggested? - I'll check). My main concern is should I be...

Thanks for all the info. Sorry, my mistake, the earth wire IS also connected to the block. Also, the switch is 2-gang - the second switch is for an adjacent room, the other only turns on the light in question (so the live feed could be off this second switch as lggifer suggested? - I'll check)...

I have a ceiling mounted light which has the red and black wires from a single T&E cable into its connector block (which is not what I expected!). Would I be correct in assuming this must be from the switch, and somewhere along the way the red (or black?) wire has been tapped into a live feed...

Nothing at all, and I appreciate it's the correct method. But I'm none too confident about my ability to get a decent fine feathered edge either side of the joints - and I understand there are vast clouds of dust when these are sanded down. I also imagined a lining paper plus wallpaper might...

Hi - Much as I admire traditional methods and the plasterer's art and skill, why is it none of the 101 different sealants are suitable for sealing plasterboard joints - if the board is to be subsequently wallpapered?? Almost all such sealants are flexible, which I thought was the most important...

Hi - I'm afraid I never did repair it. And I've still got it! It still works reasonably well which is why I haven't replaced it (plus, as with you, exceedingly awkward). I tracked down an exploded diagram which showed a couple of dozen tiny parts, none of which I could readily obtain. My mixer...

Thanks for all the advice and the safety warning which I will pass on to my son. I must admit I assumed the thermal cut-out was purely to guard against an overheating situation but I now appreciate the result of a substantial fault current. I did read elsewhere that a functioning cut-out...

The thermal cut-out tripped on my fan-assisted double oven cooker. It turned out the element had also failed - although I thought the cut-out would be designed to trip before this happened? What would be the likely sequence of events to cause both these things to occur? Would it be the...

I think on the better quality appliances they have the decency to put a lip around the edges so they're not quite so lethal!

I obviously appreciate electrical safety is the most important issue with cookers and any other electrical appliance or fitting. But having recently investigated a cooker problem, I would caution others, unfamiliar with this kind of work, to take care when handling/removing the rear metal cover...

I posted the query below a few days ago and I'm wondering if it's the correct forum? The last time I posted a query (some time ago, on a different topic) I got a few responses on the same day. Is this the austerity I've been hearing so much about??!..... Hi - I have a Beko DVC563 electric...

Thanks for that - a much more useful answer! And confirmation of what I suspected. It probably is a good idea to stir the contents from time to time and some people have suggested turning the tin upside down for a time. But I'm surprised there's no mention in the instructions - they usually...

Thanks for that. Not quite the answer I was looking for and I'm not sure how well-informed?? If it was critical I'm sure the instructions would have made mention - even a humble tin of paint tells you to stir the contents (except for non-drip). I've seen this problem raised elsewhere but...