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I don't have a pumping over problem because the issue is surging at pump switch off. Cold feed and vent are about 2in apart. I'm pretty sure I have the right of it with it being ringing in the vent/feed U caused by the sudden stop shockwave.

OK, so where do I get 42mm copper and 42-22 reducers? Best I've found is 35mm at plumbase (and I have to buy 3m!). Update: I've found some 42mm 1.5m, at jtm plumbing online but I think I now have a better solution.

I think I may have a handle on this and why joining the feed and vent helps. Let's first get rid of what I don't think is happening 1. Pump expands the radiators/pipe when running (balloon effect). When pump turns off water goes back up to F&E tank, some up the overflow. Gut call is...

The valves in the cold feed are gate valves which are normally fully open so no different from pipe work. It seemed to me that restricting the flow reduced the overflow into the tank. A bit like there was a pulse sending the water up the vent pipe and sucking in fresh from the cold feed. But...

Why? The recommend route is to bring the cold feed below the 22mm pipe the come up to join the 22mm pipe. That way you don't get thermal cycling with hot water rising up the cold feed pipe.

Does anyone know where you can find one these surge expansion vessels as shown in the "Low Head Installation" diagram?

You'll have to explain that as it makes no sense to me. Oh, OK, now I see that the forum has posted twice when it should have just edited the one post with the update.

The valve is the cold feed is for draining down, saves tying up the ballcock or turn off all the cold water. I've actually got 2 with a drain cock in between which allows me to flush the header tank to waste without throwing away all the rad water and inhibitor. Or to add chemicals into rad...

The valve is the cold feed is for draining down, saves tying up the ballcock or turn off all the cold water. I've actually got 2 with a drain cock in between which allows me to flush the header tank to waste without throwing away all the rad water and inhibitor. Or to add chemicals into rad...

Hi, Suggestions as to how I might cure this. The layout is that the vent pipe is on the inlet side of the pump as in the header feed. The feed comes in looping under then up and the vent comes straight out and up. There is a auto bypass valve around the pump. So all is as it should be...

Hi, In my plan I'm ending up with the floor (18mm chip) overhanging the last joist by about 8-9 in. I reckon I need to support that. I can't add an extra joist/noggin, that is a H between the joist so the bar of the H supports the edge. I'm blocked from inserting the right hand vertical of...

That's what I plan to do, fit "stone" but I wasn't sure if pearlstone is "stone" or not. In fact I don't this this one will do anyway. I wanted to get the drain the other side of the joist but I reckon the drain on this is 643mm to the edge, not 450mm as my brain thought (stupid brain)...

Hi, I've read that stone shower trays are better. They are more a pain to fit but the light weight ones drum from the water hitting them. I've come across pearlstone. Are these "stone" that is dead to noise so no problem with the shower hitting the tray? TIA

Heating oil is 10.35 kWh / litre on top of that you need to allow for say 84% efficiency for a good non condensing oil boiler or 93% for a good condensing, giving 8.7 kWh/l or 9.6kWh/l. Oil is around 60p/l ex VAT. Gas is lot cheaper. In fact E7 night rate is cheaper than oil. If your...

Hi, Looking at building regs H1 there is no mention of vertical waste pipe runs. The assumption seems to be that you have the sink/basin/bath then the trap, then a even fall to the stack. What about vertical pipe runs after the trap, say trap, 1:40 for 50cm, then 50cm vertical drop, then...

Good point, perhaps it was not mixed well then. I didn't lay it. It's part of the original house so 1978 AFAIR. I've 5 ltrs of Evostick brand PVA AFAIR. A good brand anyway. So 3:1 PVA on the holes then 4:1 scree mix for the large holes. And for rough areas 1:1 sand + self-levelling...

Yes, I think the floor is the standard 6in (?) concrete with 2in scree on top. The scree is crumbly near the walls in places so I think it probably dried out too quick. I reckon there it will be ok to use a bit scree mix (sharp sand 3, cermet 1) as it is quite deep. I forgot to say that...

Hi, I've taken up old floor tiles. Underneath are marley tiles (some missing) and some very rough areas at the edge with the scree is very crumbly or has come away with the tiles. I'm thinking that I should use dilute PVA, (4:1) to bond/seal and make up the deep holes with new scree...

Thanks for the suggestions. I did think about glass block. The current bathroom is not too bad on space. It uses the usually layout of [code:1] toilet sink bath | | [/code:1] in an L shape. That way stick your elbows out at sink and they are in...

Hi, I guess this fits under plumbing as it is a bathroom although it's more the building side than the pipes. I'm planing a make-over of a bathroom with toilet/sink/bath to be toilet (hidden cistern), sink (in worktop over cupboard) and shower. The room is ~6ft square. I think what...