Floor scree repair

[Malc]

Hi,

I've taken up old floor tiles. Underneath are marley tiles (some missing) and some very rough areas at the edge with the scree is very crumbly or has come away with the tiles.

I'm thinking that I should use dilute PVA, (4:1) to bond/seal and make up the deep holes with new scree (4:1). The use a self leveling compound to fix the less deep areas. But how shallow can I go with scree, how deep do I use self-leveling? Or is better to use 1:1 sharp sand and self-leveling for all but the most shallow?

I'm tempted to get all the marly tiles off to give a flat floor as it might be cheaper than self-leveling to fix the missing patches of tiles.

Advice?

 

[pred]

Do you meen "screed" usually 2" thick, i think any repairs will just dissintegrate within a few months, i reckon the only way to repair will be with as you say a self leveling compound, although the name on the packet may be a bit misleading, once it's mixed pour it down and then trowel it out. Warning this advice comes from a bricky builder, a spread would be able to offer more valid advice.

 

[Malc]

Yes, I think the floor is the standard 6in (?) concrete with 2in scree on top. The scree is crumbly near the walls in places so I think it probably dried out too quick. I reckon there it will be ok to use a bit scree mix (sharp sand 3, cermet 1) as it is quite deep.

I forgot to say that I'll be tiling over the floor again so I just need a flat surface to make tiling easy.

 

[pred]

When you say sharp sand i assume you mean the stuff with the bits of shell, really coarse, i think its Bideford, i can never remember the names, i dont see how it could have dried out to quick, when you're laying screed it is almost dry, a lot of DIYers do tend to put to much water with it, also deffinatly not 3-1, off the top of my head i would say maybe 4-1 but could be 5-1, cement does not make it stronger, when you can mould it into a ball and it doesn't fall to pieces is the amount of water needed, and give the holes another coat of 3-1 water-pva prior to infill, i also assume you're using a branded pva, do not use the coloured water that a certain DIY shop sells as its own brand, i kid you not my P is stronger, expect to pay between £10/£15 for 5lts.

 

[Malc]

Good point, perhaps it was not mixed well then. I didn't lay it. It's part of the original house so 1978 AFAIR. I've 5 ltrs of Evostick brand PVA AFAIR. A good brand anyway.

So 3:1 PVA on the holes then 4:1 scree mix for the large holes. And for rough areas 1:1 sand + self-levelling. Round here sand is either sharp or soft/builders sand. The later is for mortar.

 

[pred]

Not sure about mixing sand to self leveling however different manufacturers may have varying techniques, but as i say pour the SLF on the floor and run the trowel through to push it into the troughs, if this is a one off and you're not going to use a trowel for another 5yrs or so get a cheap one, do not buy a Marshaltown for £30, you say you're going to tile after the floor is level so assuming you have a notched trowel use the smooth side.

Last but not least, DIY is finished, the new fad is GSI, Get Somone In.