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More questions: 1) There is a vacant hot water connection next to the cold water one. What would happen if I used this instead of teeing off the cold? Do dishwashers finish their cycles with cold rinses to remove the soap, which would then waste a lot of hot water? And what if the hot water...

Thanks! So if the standpipe is currently the correct height, will I need to shorten it by the height of the twin hose attachment, or will it be fine without? Would I just use scissors for that? Does the twin hose connector connect to the standpipe via compression fitting? Do I need a jointing...

I would like to add a dishwasher to the kitchen for the first time. I can't put it near the sink without removing cupboards, but there is space next to the washing machine. Are there any obvious problems with this choice of placement? I am hoping it is an easy job to use the existing water...

Also, would turning the back boiler setting down (from 3 to 2) help a bit?

Thanks. I'll try observing the vent pipe. It's a Baxi Bermuda. I don't know whether it's fully pumped - how do I tell? Using a strong magnet, there's no attraction on the feed anymore, but there's some weak attraction after it tees in and onwards. This pipe is 28mm, though. Ok, so you think it...

1) Yep - always bleeding with the system hot and off 2) No. I have no idea how to do that on my back boiler 3) Yes, always bleed the pump with the rest of the system Any ideas on the foamy stuff?

I have a very old system with a back boiler, and a header tank in the loft. It has a TF1 filter, fitted 5 years ago, but has largely been neglected over the years. In September I tried the heating and it wouldn't come on. Also, the header tank was full of brown sludge, which I cleared out...

I've had X400 in for 2 weeks now. It seems to be working, and I've run the heating hot at times during cold snaps, including with one radiator at a time. However, at this time of year the heating is off during the day and not that much at night either. I could drain it now, but want to get the...

Really? That's not what the Ronseal product description would have you believe!

Alright well hopefully we're not just idiots who missed something obvious :LOL:

A month ago, my door and window frames needed repainting. Three parts of the frames had started to rot (2 bad-ish, 1 not so bad spot). In these places, I dug out the rot and some surrounding wood, used a lot of Ronseal wet rot wood hardener, gave it ages to dry, gave it a rub down with a metal...

Right. It will be on concrete. Even without the outriggers and missing a cross member (if they are supposed to go in every section), it should be safer than any kind of ladder, right?

Yes, the video shows the guy putting the "cross members" on, if that's what they're called, so I'm wondering if all models have them and if they're necessary. The outriggers may be a separate issue. Are they strongly recommended?

Upstairs window frames really need painting. Haven't done it before, but hiring a scaffold tower seems to be a reasonable compromise between cost and safety. E.g. https://www.hss.com/hire/p/mitower-plus However, the problem is one of the upstairs windows is directly above the front door, which...

Thank you, but I tend to use Amazon/eBay as a last resort (except for things "Dispatched from and sold by Amazon", of which there appear to be none for this product), as I don't trust the quality. I'm mostly interested in why the big retailers aren't stocking this - is it that 3/4" is very...

Screwfix, Wickes and Toolstation only sell 1/2" glands. My old shower mixer tap is dripping, but it's 3/4". Why does nobody sell them, and what should I do? The only ones I can find from a big retailer are at City plumbing, but they're expensive and it doesn't say whether they have a 20-tooth...

Very nice! Do you have a link to the stuff you bought?

I was surprised to find that none of the big retailers sell white plastic sheet suitable for a bath panel. I could only find it online which was quite expensive. Wickes sell clear acrylic but that's no good. Also the acrylic bath panels are super brittle which is annoying

From what I've seen the good quality stuff is ok to use for applications like kitchen worktops - surely a bath panel is gonna have less strain than that? Just seems a lot easier than having to seal and paint the ply - particularly as it wraps round the edges. Is there a product that can go...

I have an odd shaped bath panel to replace so I want to make my own out of plywood. Is wrapping the whole panel in stickyback plastic a good way to avoid sealing/priming/painting the face and edges? I've not heard of it being done before so I'm just checking there's no obvious problem with it...