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So I think if I put down 6mm flooring ply and screw it on the joist centres that should do the job. All of the 5.5mm in Selco says it is "General Purpose" - would this be good enough? Should I counter sink the screw heads a bit?

Is this for the glue down planks or also the click together?

Thinking about putting down some click together LVT planks in my box room which is about 4m². The current subfloor is pine floor boards so I was wondering how best to prepare the floor for the LVT planks? Would some 5-6mm ply be ok screwed down at regular intervals? I also read it was better...

Just wondering if anyone knows anything about carpets? Would seem like an easy subject but it seems impossible to compare each carpet at the various carpet sheds to know which is best. For example, how do I compare if a twist pile from carpet right for £20/m² is better or worse than one from...

Worked perfectly thanks. Used some of these (see image below) with 4 x 40mm screws with red plugs. Still holding everything up as I type!

Hi woody, thanks for your post. Could you post a link to the hangers at all? I was searching last night but must have been using the wrong search terms as only found what I posted the picture of above. Thanks again.

Hi @tony1851 and thanks for your reply. I can certainly go to the local timber yard but what about a builders merchants such as Selco (bit closer to me)? Is that likely to be better quality than B&Q ? Thanks again.

I was thinking about putting some beams across my garage to use for storing long items. There would not be anything very heavy on them - bits of timber, pipe etc etc. They would be put at around 2.2m above floor level and go wall to wall. I was planning on putting three up in total. What is...

Morning, (Have checked existing posts but wanted to get up to date information and some other questions). I need to self level approximately 12m² of garage floor. The floor has a lot of imperfections up to 3-4mm deep in places but in some places it's completely smooth. I think my idea would be...

Great. Got it thanks. The opening on the 3.3m is for the window.

Br3 by Lamentable posted 26 Oct 2020 at 2:24 PM Forgot I have got a plan of the room. So for the section at the top of the image below the window I was planning to insert a section with square edges. Left side - scribe at the top - square at the bottom. Right side - scribe at top and bottom...

The room is more or less a square with the door opposite the window. I was thinking about doing the section under the window and behind the radiator with one length scribed at both ends. Would this work?

Great thanks. You predicted my next question!

Just following up on your comment @lostinthelight So if I am doing an internal corner and using a coping saw: Skirting board piece 1 - cut to length against wall and no need to bevel any edges? Skirting board piece 2 - bevel to 45° and then back cut with a coping saw? Thanks again.

Thanks @^woody^ . Tempted to pick up a £200 Dewalt DWS773-GB 216MM from a well known click & collect trade retailer. This has a 250mm slide capacity. I can always sell it again on Ebay once I have finished all of the work.

Thanks both for the information. @JobAndKnock - so where the Makita says max cross cut 95 x 90.5mm this refers to the depth of the material being bevel cut (in this case 18mm) ? @Harry Bloomfield - planning to get a coping saw for the internal corners but I think the compound mitre saw will...

Will be replacing all the skirting boards in the house (over the next 100 years....). Was looking for a compound mitre saw to do the job. The skirting will be around 160mm in height. How can I tell from the saw if I can put material of this height into it? Which factor do I look for? Is it the...

I've done some investigation on the original doors which I could have dipped or attempt to strip them myself with a heat gun. They do have a flat mortice latch in them with dimensions as follows: Depth including front plate: 95mm. Height (not including front plate): 38mm Width: 12mm. Distance...