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Hi I have reviewed some previous posts but I am not sure of the size of SWA cable to use for a garage and workshop. I am only planning to put the cable under the floor before some laminate gets laid - I am yet to get planning permission for the garage - but thought I would save an awkward job...

Hello, I am planning to have a central runner carpet up the stairs and paint the edges of the treads and risers with F&B Primer/Undercoat then F&B Estate Eggshell; I am just wondering how to prep. The house is Edwardian and the stairs look to have been varnished? It seems to be dark brown, a...

Hello, I am renovating an old T&G outhouse door and replacing the door frame. I have stripped the door back to bare wood. The frame will need to be replaced and I plan to use standard softwood and paint the end grain with preserver. The requirement is a white frame and coloured door with a...

I actually have a photo of the house when new in 1905. The windows are recessed about the same depth, but it looks like there was a stone cill for these windows. Other windows had the tile and brick arrangement that is there now.

So the brick curves pretty much in line with the frame, there isn't really a flat surface.

I will just have to keep filling until I can afford replacements. The window is close to the edge of the brick and has sealant, I have attached new photo, so I don't think it is getting in at the bottom. Please tell me if I am wrong.

Thanks for your help.

Could a local joiner fit a cill now or would the windows need to come out - I think I am getting beyond my DIY abilities here and I don't know enough about how windows are fitted. The windows do have sealant along the bottom edge, which I thought would stop the water getting in, but is is...

No cement fillet, there is just a small gap (couple of mm) between the cill bricks and the bottom edge of the window.

The internal wall have insulated plasterboard on them so it would run down the back without showing on the internal plaster. This is one of my concerns - one day the floor joists will just rot through.

I plan to spend today repairing them with filler, but I wanted to try and ensure I treated the cause if I could as I thought it was brick related and therefore risked water penetration into the house. But if it is related to the windows I will just keep them going for now.

Thanks for your quick responses. To respond to your queries - The wall takes lot of weather, it is SW facing so gets the wind and rain. I think it was repointed with cement with PVA in, does that sound right? I asked the builder at the time if it should be a lime mortar but he said no. The...

Hello I have a problem with rainwater penetration through a brick wall and the water is pooling and rotting the windows from the bottom up. I am not sure what to do?? The house is Edwardian and the wall is a SW facing gable end, 2 bricks think, no cavity. It was repointed 4 years ago and...

Thanks for your help. I am struggling as the rad has to go in a tight space, only 650 mm wide between shower cubicle and chimney breast, so my options for a powerful radiator are limited. I will see if I can find a more powerful one that meets with the approval of the management.

Hello, I have reviewed some previous posts but I am not sure they have given me the answer. I am replacing a bathroom radiator that was always too small. According to some of the calculators I need about 900 watts or 3500-4500 BTUs, depending on the calculator. Room is 3.7m x 2.4m x 2.6m...

I don't think it is a boiler/pump issue as it worked ok last winter and I haven't added more rads. The wall is brick to next door, so no chance. Looks like I will have to start trying get the tiles up and see whether I can get the floorboards up and access the pipes. Thanks to you all for...

Here are photos of the radiator, the flexible pipe and the the position in the bathroom

Sadly can't get to it from below, there is an RSJ underneath where the chimney breast has been taken out in the kitchen, but left in the bathroom above. Will have to see whether I can take off the skirtings and pull up enough of the laminate to cut the floorboards and get access.

Thanks Jon. The flexible pipes had been used before we moved in, one of many 'interesting' jobs that had been done in the house. Unfortunately replacing them will require taking up the laminate floor in the bathroom, which will require the bath and toilet to come out. Again, thanks.