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unfortunately not, the soffits are asbestos, so im not going anywhere near them! they have been tested in a lab.

not a bad plan, but im not really planning on being here longer than a few years!. its actually acrylic but with a thicker coating on it which adds some rigidity to it and supposedly keeps the water warmer for longer (highly doubt it!)

More movement on the bathroom, ive fitted all the aquaboard now, and ive added a light into the niche, Its 12v LED and IP67 fed for the time being from the main light switch, but i may put it on its own switch as it will be nice for low level lighting in the middle of the night when bright...

well so far it is "use the floppy side panel that came with the bath", i havent seen anyone do anything else worth it, at least not on a P shaped bath. some of the L Shaped baths ive seen are tiled because they are square which is something that might be worth doing, and i possibly would have...

I thought about the reciprocating saw but its a tool i dont have and probably not a good idea to buy another tool just yet as i seem to have an addiction at the moment. Stitch drilling sounds like the winner if i have enough room i hadnt thought of it. thanks

I need to cut the brick under the bottom of this hole. so as to bring the hole down one brick. this will allow me to run my ventilation straight outside. The idea is to cut the brick fit the plastic pipe and then pack the whole with deep cement to strengthen it all back up. obviously i cant...

went with an led strip

Im going to tile this wall the wall on the right of the image below. however i recently realised that it was way more off level than i thought, its a bit of a bodge to say the least. It actually kinks out and back in again. my original idea was to ask a plasterer to level it out, but the more i...

im getting toward the point of sealing my aquaboard panels on my bathroom wall. Ive built a niche into the wall in the shower area so i want it to be extra water tight, to do this, ive bought some tanking membrane to paint over all the corners and joins, however.. what do i use to seal any gaps...

as far as i know hobs are setup so each side can be powered seperatley, then usually the two sides are bridged together by a metal insert, or at least this is how mine was when i installed it years ago. I didn't realise this and only half my hob worked when i first turned it on. so its possible...

a shower valve such as this one http://www.victorianplumbing.co.uk/hudson-reed-kristal-triple-concealed-thermostatic-shower-valve-w-diverter-kri3023.aspx can be used for 3 things, so a main shower head, a hand shower and a third option had i found it before drilling the tap holes in the bath...

sorry its not clear, the outside vent is lower down by about a brick or two in height. is the flexible dryer type PVC pipe ok to use for this?

I bought a rage 3 about 8 months ago, since then ive used it a lot, just DIY, ive built a stud wall, and made the loft floor higher and also installed a lowered new ceiling, and ive used it in all these jobs and more. I bought the one with the biggest slide so i could get the biggest peices of...

I have a 100mm channel width extractor for my bathroom that i need to install. the wiring is all done and in place. the problem im having is with running the ventilation pipe. i purposely bought some plastic 100mm PVC solid pipe to do the job, i was planning to run it straight through the wall...

Ive looked into the RGB strips and just plain white strips and it gets expensive quickly and i cant find an easy clean way to hide them that is water proof. the fittings are compression fittings not push fit, ive not soldered before so copper wasnt really going to be any safer for me leaks wise.

Im currently building a niche in my bathroom as in the images below. I want to put 3 spot lights into the top of the niche shining down from the top. there is about 75mm of space but i think a maximum hole size of 65 - 70 mm would be about right. The house was rewired a month or two ago and...

just a note to say you were all very correct, the waste pipe is very magnetic and so defo not asbestos, makes my life way way easier, ive ordered the unit for the bathroom as a result so ill have the new toilet in the next few weeks, just enough time to find some tiles i dont think i would have...

yeah i went with compression because im pretty sure they are better than plastic, ive never done copper soldering so i thought compression was the best compromise

The hand basin and bath are currently together on the other side of the room, but im hoping to have the hand basin drain in to the toilet waste ive seen you can add them in. Ill use solvent weld stuff most likely as thats what i used on the bath, I suppose ill have to wait until the unit arrives...