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Yes, it'd been discussed at length!

Sorry, my mistake, it was the Premier24 (which is around 3 times the price?). Looks like I'd lose at least the key-fob facility? And is the reliability as good as Texecom?

I do still have the original part and note of original wiring config - I did have a spark check it out, he's connected it but says he's by no means sure it's correct (yet to test it o_O ).

A bit of an awkward one, I discussed and agreed with an installer to fit a Texecom R8 alarm system - he's done initial cabling and due to return but have just found the panels etc he's about to fit and it's a Honeywell Accenta Mini system. He's a friend of a friend, so it's a bit awkward but...

Thanks Frodo but after filling in details it says they have no distributors (for the old).

Any ideas on the cable config then? ;)

No worries John - yes, I saw it's also had AC so didn't think DC rating effected matters. Sheds - does that mean the part is not a compatible replacement?

Yes, that's correct John (re. negative terminals). On the old suppressor, the cable used for L2 was lacquered (as was the N3) so I thought I could tie them up by process of elimination. Sheds - AC/DC issue? :evil:

Quick question, I've got a suppressor on a piece of equipment that has blown, I've received the replacement suppressor but the wiring format is slightly different (attached). The new model has P(DC+) and P'(DC+') whereas the old one has L1 and L2. Am I correct in thinking L1 = P(DC+) L2 =...

new suppressor

old suppressor

suppressor

Thanks Scott, that's helpful - insurance isn't set up yet but I planned to avoid any that stipulated monitored. Tbh, it's a safe area 5 minutes from my house...but obviously I want to take sensible precautions! I do wonder if, instead of contact sensors, money would be better spent on window bars.

Thanks Bernard, I realise every system has failure points and the ideal scenario is a specialist security company to make it like Fort Knox - but the renovation has already drained my funds, so I was looking for a best-case-scenario DIY option.

Thanks Bernard - he told me for all intents and purposes a modern wireless would be fine, that other electricians will push wired just to get a couple of days install fee out of me. There's probably a shade of truth in that but I've since found other things he's told me have been nonsense...

Thanks Pars, what reasons are you thinking? Annoying thing was, there was a wired version in already - the spark pulled it all out because it was hard to workaround with the renovation and said "put a wireless one in" :cautious:

I've got to sort an alarm for our shop, I'm hoping to go wireless (although the length of the L shaped unit spans about 40m front to rear, which I hope will be ok). So far I've been reading the Pyronix Enforcer and Texecom systems are good. However, window contacts could be an issue - should...

Yes, it'll be no trouble at this height.

Not much, probably arc in an inch or so at highest point.

Hi Doggit, Not sure on position yet, I'd probably fill any thickness difference with clear silicone, it was really to check it's ok to take a little bit out of the transom/s and if any type of end grain sealer would be required.