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My kitchen ceiling consists of a single layer of plasterboard with an Artex random stipple finish (applied in 1991 so is safe). I need to do two distinct types of repair now. 1 I had to access cables from below in two places so I cut out two hatches each about 20cm x 10cm. In both...

Thanks guys for all the helpful advice. Running the socket off a fused spur is possible but the only reasonable place I have to install the fuse would be too close to a potential wet area so I won't do that. TTC - this picture http://www.chocbox.info/images/junctionBox_CAP.jpg...

Maybe I wasn't clear. The flex is rated 16A and I want to connect two lengths separately to two single 13A socket modules. These would be two spurs taken off the same point of the ring, i.e. not be part of it. The ONLY reason I want to do this is that the cable entry to each module is...

Before I bought it I thought it would be as easy as connecting a conventional socket but yes, the unit consists of two independent modules, each with a cable grip that appears intended for a single flex. I originally intended the unit to be looped into the ring but what I will do instead is fix...

I want to install one of these http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/KS104.html but there appears to be no provision for earthing the outer metal case e.g. adding a link from one of the fixing lugs to the earth terminal within the black plastic module. Shouldn't the case be earthed?

Thanks for the advice Matt. I've taken the tiles off now and the surface is well bonded and reasonably flat so I'll get away with a 3-4mm layer of levelling compound. But there's about 4 sq m of floor space where there were no tiles in the first place and this is about 5-8mm lower than the...

I am redoing my kitchen and plan to lay vinyl tiles on the floor. Currently the floor is covered by ceramic tiles but I have been advised to remove them for best results. The present floor is slightly too high anyway so I'm OK with that. The floor screed was originally laid 18 years ago...

Thanks Steve. I wasn't aware of the superiority of wall sockets over extension sockets, both being "13A sockets", but what you say makes sense. I think I'll go with sinking the socket - I agree that cutting the flex off is the obvious thing to do but so often you see the advice here to go...

Thanks for the reply Steve. The microwave is 460mm wide, 320mm deep and 320mm high. It designed to be installed in a compartment that is 464mm wide, 300mm deep and between 362mm and 365mm high. The front is meant to project 20mm out of the cupboard so that it is flush with the neighbouring...

Bernard- Switching will be controlled by an above counter FCU. The microwave vents through a grill in the left hand side of its top and the 45mm space above the oven is there for that purpose. Expellants exit the compartment though a full width extra deep service gap at the back of...

Steve- I was proposing to make up the lead using suitable flex e.g. 1.5mm 16A 3-core but wasn't sure if that would be acceptable for a fixed installation. Why don't I want to cut a hole in the cabinet? The way I saw it*, the hole would be in the floor of the cupboard above and anything...

I need a compact socket to plug a microwave oven into. The oven will be built-into a 300mm deep microwave wall cupboard with only 45mm space available above it in the oven compartment (unventilated side) and none at the back or sides. Would it be acceptable to use an extension socket like...

Hmm, thanks b-a-s. Not exactly pretty but at least it's not grey and the flush frame makes it a bit more presentable. But it's not what the missus expects to see next to her posh new sink in her posh new kitchen! Personally, I think it unlikely there will be a problem in practice for the...

Appearance. They're usually clunky grey things aren't they? I know appearance is subjective but I haven't seen any that would look more in place in a kitchen than a garden.

The FCUs are for a washing machine and tumble dryer. They could only be slightly higher on account of cupboards above but anyway wouldn't be acceptable there because every other counter-top accessory is at the same height as they are now. Is that a metre away from the sink or where the...

Mrs Tuppence wants her new sink installed under the window with one of those taps with a separate sprayer (not the pull-out nozzle type but a separate hose + hand sprayer which can only be operated by aiming it and then depressing a push button on the back of the handle). There are a...

As an alternative to installing the CCU in a cupboard, would the following be safe? (As before, I am concerned with heat affecting - and downgrading - the 32A supply to an oven rated at 7.2Kw.) There will be a counter well within 2M of the oven - in fact right next to it - but it will be on...

Thanks guys for the replies but I really did mean the cooker control unit. What I didn't realise was that it had to be visible so wasn't allowed in a cupboard. Also, I may not have made clear that I was also concerned about the short length of exposed cable bridging the gap between wall and...

I'm redesigning my kitchen and would like to move the oven housing a few centimetres from where it is now. The supply is 6mm sq. T+E protected by a 32A MCB and runs a few cm to the side of where the present oven housing is. The new oven is rated at 7.2Kw and the supply will be dedicated to it...

Thanks for your replies. No. Hard water will continue to feed a drinking water tap in the kitchen and also the garden tap.