I need a compact socket to plug a microwave oven into. The oven will be built-into a 300mm deep microwave wall cupboard with only 45mm space available above it in the oven compartment (unventilated side) and none at the back or sides. Would it be acceptable to use an extension socket like this in a fixed installation? http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/TLRS1W.html If so, would you use flex under capping to connect to the FCU? (I'm always reluctant to cut moulded plugs off, especially in this case where I don't even know if the thing works and the instructions warn that "The appliance is fitted with a plug and must only be connected to a properly earthed socket". Nor do I want to cut a plug sized hole in the floor of the cupboard above!)
Connection to built-in microwave
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The socket should be accessible to enable you to switch of the oven if there is a fault that cannot be safely halted by the controls on the oven.
If there isn't space to somehow fit a socket then is there space for ventilation of the cupboard ? If not then a couple of ventilation holes, one large enough for the plug would be a good idea.
Most built in microwaves do seem to have fan driven ventilation that vents to the front but some vent to the side, rear, top or bottom. Some also move steam out of the cooking cavity. Steam vented into a non ventilated cupboard will result in condensation and mould growth.
If there isn't space to somehow fit a socket then is there space for ventilation of the cupboard ? If not then a couple of ventilation holes, one large enough for the plug would be a good idea.
Most built in microwaves do seem to have fan driven ventilation that vents to the front but some vent to the side, rear, top or bottom. Some also move steam out of the cooking cavity. Steam vented into a non ventilated cupboard will result in condensation and mould growth.
Steve-
I was proposing to make up the lead using suitable flex e.g. 1.5mm 16A 3-core but wasn't sure if that would be acceptable for a fixed installation.
Why don't I want to cut a hole in the cabinet? The way I saw it*, the hole would be in the floor of the cupboard above and anything small and loose could fall down it unless I also made up some sort of removable cover. I would then finish up with a hole, a cover, a plug and socket. To me, making the connection in the same compartment seemed a much cleaner solution - all it needed was a slim socket and a way of connecting it. Hence my question.
* It would be better to make the connection in a neighboring cabinet by drilling a plug sized hole through their sides. But I still prefer the cleaner solution if it's doable.
I was proposing to make up the lead using suitable flex e.g. 1.5mm 16A 3-core but wasn't sure if that would be acceptable for a fixed installation.
Why don't I want to cut a hole in the cabinet? The way I saw it*, the hole would be in the floor of the cupboard above and anything small and loose could fall down it unless I also made up some sort of removable cover. I would then finish up with a hole, a cover, a plug and socket. To me, making the connection in the same compartment seemed a much cleaner solution - all it needed was a slim socket and a way of connecting it. Hence my question.
* It would be better to make the connection in a neighboring cabinet by drilling a plug sized hole through their sides. But I still prefer the cleaner solution if it's doable.
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Bernard-
Switching will be controlled by an above counter FCU.
The microwave vents through a grill in the left hand side of its top and the 45mm space above the oven is there for that purpose. Expellants exit the compartment though a full width extra deep service gap at the back of the cabinet.
The right hand side of this 45mm space is "fenced off" from the fan and grill side of the oven by a 45mm high "airtight" partition. It is in the redundant 45mm high void on the right hand side that I want to make the final connection.
Switching will be controlled by an above counter FCU.
The microwave vents through a grill in the left hand side of its top and the 45mm space above the oven is there for that purpose. Expellants exit the compartment though a full width extra deep service gap at the back of the cabinet.
The right hand side of this 45mm space is "fenced off" from the fan and grill side of the oven by a 45mm high "airtight" partition. It is in the redundant 45mm high void on the right hand side that I want to make the final connection.
I'm still not clear as to the arrangement here, but as you say there is an FCU I assume this is the connection point for the MW, so can you not extend this point to the MW compartment? Dont forget you need accessible isolation for the MW too.
Thanks for the reply Steve.
The microwave is 460mm wide, 320mm deep and 320mm high. It designed to be installed in a compartment that is 464mm wide, 300mm deep and between 362mm and 365mm high. The front is meant to project 20mm out of the cupboard so that it is flush with the neighbouring cupboard doors.
An important detail is that on the unventilated side where the cable enters the microwave, the oven is slightly less deep - enough to take the flex. That's the side where I wanted to make the electrical connection -- in the 45mm free space above.
As to the wiring, my intention was to wire an above counter FCU into the ring and take the spur directly into the microwave compartment, the run being under capping, plaster and tiles. The FCU has a 3mm contact gap which I believe is acceptable for isolation. It wouldn't be controlling any other outlet.
One other approach struck me as I was writing this. Instead of using an extension socket, would it be acceptable to sink a regular unswitched socket so deep into the wall behind the cupboard (a solid wall) that it too is recessed as well as the metal box it is attached to? Of course, the hole would have to be slightly larger than normal to take the socket but the face of the socket would only have to be about 10mm below the surface of the wall to solve the problem. The plug could be plugged in, the microwave could be pushed back and the flex at the plug end could be comfortably made to lie flat against the wall.
Would there be any regulatory problems with sinking a flush socket into a wall?
The microwave is 460mm wide, 320mm deep and 320mm high. It designed to be installed in a compartment that is 464mm wide, 300mm deep and between 362mm and 365mm high. The front is meant to project 20mm out of the cupboard so that it is flush with the neighbouring cupboard doors.
An important detail is that on the unventilated side where the cable enters the microwave, the oven is slightly less deep - enough to take the flex. That's the side where I wanted to make the electrical connection -- in the 45mm free space above.
As to the wiring, my intention was to wire an above counter FCU into the ring and take the spur directly into the microwave compartment, the run being under capping, plaster and tiles. The FCU has a 3mm contact gap which I believe is acceptable for isolation. It wouldn't be controlling any other outlet.
One other approach struck me as I was writing this. Instead of using an extension socket, would it be acceptable to sink a regular unswitched socket so deep into the wall behind the cupboard (a solid wall) that it too is recessed as well as the metal box it is attached to? Of course, the hole would have to be slightly larger than normal to take the socket but the face of the socket would only have to be about 10mm below the surface of the wall to solve the problem. The plug could be plugged in, the microwave could be pushed back and the flex at the plug end could be comfortably made to lie flat against the wall.
Would there be any regulatory problems with sinking a flush socket into a wall?
You could sink a socket. Why not put the socket in the compartment above / below the microwave? As long as its a proper socket its ok. Our worry was with using a rubber extension socket, which aren't designed for constant/frequent high load use, and dont have very good contacts etc. They aren't as rigourously tested as wall sockets
Rather than putting the socket deep into the wall, and if you dont want to have it above / below, then use a flex outlet. If this microwave is designed for permenant installation, then I dont see a problem with lopping off the plug. Check the manual.
Rather than putting the socket deep into the wall, and if you dont want to have it above / below, then use a flex outlet. If this microwave is designed for permenant installation, then I dont see a problem with lopping off the plug. Check the manual.
Thanks Steve. I wasn't aware of the superiority of wall sockets over extension sockets, both being "13A sockets", but what you say makes sense.
I think I'll go with sinking the socket - I agree that cutting the flex off is the obvious thing to do but so often you see the advice here to go with what the manufacturer says and my first message quoted what that was. And as I said before, I'm always reluctant to cut the plug off.
Thanks again for your advice - it's been very helpful!
I think I'll go with sinking the socket - I agree that cutting the flex off is the obvious thing to do but so often you see the advice here to go with what the manufacturer says and my first message quoted what that was. And as I said before, I'm always reluctant to cut the plug off.
Thanks again for your advice - it's been very helpful!
If you are worried about a hole in the base of the cabinet above, then why not cut the plug off the microwave, drill a hole just big enough for the cable to pass through and then attach a new plug to the cable... fit socket in cupboard above.
OK it will be a pain to remove the microwave, but I don't think it would be any worse than any of your other options.
OK it will be a pain to remove the microwave, but I don't think it would be any worse than any of your other options.
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