Connecting a single built in cooker

[wannocks]

I'm in the process of installing my built in cooker. I have had the kitchen rewired and have had an unswitched double 13A socket fitted in the unit for the oven and microwave. The oven is rated at 3400W, the microwave at 2840W.
Can anyone advise on the best way to connect the oven. Will 1.5mm heat resistant flex be adequate or should it be 2.5mm? I guess the 2.5 would be difficult to terminate in a 13A plug. The cable will be 1.5 to 2M long.

 

[chivers67]

Who wired your kitchen, were they advised the cooker would be rated that high?

 

[wannocks]

Local electrician, and yes they looked at the data badges on the appliances.

 

[wannocks]

Oven:
APPLIANCE SPECIFICATIONS
Dimensions
width 43.4 cm
height 39.5 cm
depth 40.8 cm
Volume 70 l
Electrical
connections
voltage: 230 - 240 V~ 50Hz
maximum power absorbed
3400-3600W (see data plate)
ENERGY
LABEL
Directive 2002/40/EC on the
label of electric ovens.
Standard EN 50304

 

[Taylortwocities]

Those appliances should properly be on their own, individual, circuits back to the consumer unit.

The oven runs at nearly 15amps, so a 13A plug is NOT NOT going to hack it on Christmas Day.


BS7671 recommends that fixed loads over 2KW should be on separate circuits.

Also, most double sockets are rated as 13amps in total, not 13amps each. You are in danger of overloading the socket with both appliances running at the same time.

 

[wannocks]

Ta for that, it is a single circuit (32A) so I will get the socket swapped for a cooker outlet.

 

[chivers67]

It should be accessible and within two meters of the cooker just in case the "electrician" doesn't know

 

[Taylortwocities]

Ta for that, it is a single circuit (32A) so I will get the socket swapped for a cooker outlet.

OK, so it is a single dedicated circuit that serves the cooker&microwave and nothing else?
Is that right?

If so you need a cooker outlet for the oven and (probably) a 13A socket for the microwave. Look in the manufacturer's instructions for the microwave, they may require a 13A fuse for that.

If the 32A circuit serves other points (eg sockets) then you must not install a cooker connection point.

 

[wannocks]

That's right, I have had a new (individual radial) circuit added to feed just the oven and the microwave that are fitted together in a tall unit. The old cooker circuit will be supplying the hob.
Have just checked the oven and it comes with about 2m of 1.5mm flex. Seems Hotpoint think that is ok.
I'm quite happy to change it to a cooker switch (one with a 13A socket to feed the microwave.

I'm a heating engineer (boiler repair) by trade, but got a spark in to do the kitchen as it's notifiable and wanted to have the right certificates. I also have the joy that the previous owner of my house was an enthusiastic amateur, so wanted the electrics properly tested. He had done some stupid things so I wanted to be sure all the problems had been rectified!

 

[wannocks]

I thought a twin socket was rated at 20A, My kettle is 3Kw, 13A leaves little for anything else to be plugged in as well.
My coffee maker is rated at 1.8Kw, does this mean it would be unsafe for me to have the kettle and the coffee maker plugged into the same socket? I wouldn't think this is an unusual situation.