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libby - Yeah ... plus I have tried two wastes with two different types of washers. Its a slotted waste .... I guess the water is building up under that nut/washer and slowly running down the thread?

This basin trap is driving me mad ... I've taken it apart and reset it so many times but it keeps leaking .... See pics below to see where its leaking ... Should I use silicon on the trap-waste seal and on the underside of the basin waste seal+thread? I dont understand how water is...

Can anyone please recommend a good non yellowing white satin paint? ... its to paint interior doors and skirtings .... ... dont mind oil or water based ... .... tried Johnstones oil based which yellowed badly after 6 months :(

I see reading other threads its a common problem with oil based paints .... What about Leyland Satinwood White ? Or should I go for a water based satin to avoid any yellowing?

I have had exactly the same issue with Johnstones White Eggshell :( Is this typical of oil based paints? Anyone recommend one that wont go yellow? Its very annoying ... I have more woodwork to paint on some new skirtings which now wont match ... I'll never buy Johnstones paint again.

Thanks foxhole ... Measuring the average coathanger 38mm is too large for most ... so I will stick with 25mm and put a support piece of drilled timber half way.

Old thread I know ... but have similar question .. What is the max length of unsupported wardrobe rail? I see http://www.ironmongerydirect.co.uk due 19, 25 and 38mm diameter. Would the 25mm be OK on a 1500 length just supported at the ends?

I know this has been asked a trillion times on here ... Can I use a flexible hose to connect my gas hob? I've seen the answer is NO on here it must be copper ... but then saw these BG approved hoses for just that ??? http://www.screwfix.com/p/micropoint-cooker-hose-1065mm/16488#

foxhole At the front yes ... did think of that. I might brace it up with a metal support under the chipboard. At the back I needed to keep the back panel and cross brace to have something to screw supports for the back lip of the sink. The drain and tap holes meant I couldn't put a metal...

Thanks for the tips and advice .... I did it today ... Using a single batten worked fine with a 16mm straight bit ... (Had to hack the back of the unit around because its such a tight fit for taps and overflow ... but that's another story!).

.... fair comments ... I see the issue now ... Maybe we should all just wear plastic gloves and shoes when handling anything electrical in the house ;) ;)

OK .. thanks for the replies ... Yeah they are Class II or have that square symbol double insulated ... I feel enlightened! As an aside ... My electrician told me when I changed my light switches from plastic to metal plate ones I had to earth them the back box ... why arent these...

Just a ponder whilst fitting my kitchen ... Why are some items not earthed ? ie. My hotpoint cooker hood is just 2 core ... My under unit worktop lights are 2 core .. Both have metal/stainless casings .... Having had an electrician move my consumer unit it seems NICEIC are obsessed...

Thanks Phill .... I will have a practice with an off-cut clamped between two battens to see how I get on! ..... if I don't feel comfortable with it I will ask the granite fitters ...

Thanks for the reply Symptoms Do you mean the granite fitters will chase out on the underside to accommodate the sink edge thickness? (around the underside of the sink cutout). Could I use an electric plane on the edges of the unit ... or hard to get an equal depth cut the full length...

I need to remove 1-2mm from the top edges of my new kitchen sink unit, so that the undermount sink will sit flush. I'm new to routing ... will it cut through the melamine OK? What sort of bit should I use? Thanks This is the unit and sink ...

Thanks for all the tips ... I had another go today around some new kitchen sockets .. Pics -> http://www.robs-stuff.com/plastering I'm beginning to see 'the secret' is drinking tea ... patience ... a pot of water and a paint brush ... and about 5yrs experience of doing this every day!!!!

Ban-all-sheds ... It looks very nice and well illuminated with the spots ... Its a long narrow room .... they work well .. yeah 600W is excessive ... agree .. 336W will be a lot better ... flameport Thats subject discussed here ... It seems not the case...

Ban-all-sheds ... Why? Should I be using candles or torches;) Building inspector would not let me use recessed spots ... becuase of celotex in part of this room's garage conversion ...hence these ... I've found some 400W dimmers ... will de-rate the bulbs to those 28W ones making the...

Thanks TTC The TLC IQ's are only rated to 300W (touch ones to 400W) ... Its a 10m long Kitchen Dinner with two sets of these on one circuit http://www.wickes.co.uk/bullet-6-bar-spotlight/invt/187033/ I think I should downgrade the bulbs to these 28W ones making the cicuit 336W ...