Routing top of kitchen unit for undermount sink?

[outmyway]

I need to remove 1-2mm from the top edges of my new kitchen sink unit, so that the undermount sink will sit flush.

I'm new to routing ... will it cut through the melamine OK?
What sort of bit should I use?

Thanks

This is the unit and sink ...

 

[Symptoms]

out - consider using a jigsaw. You can use this to cut though the top bracing piece (white) to accommodate the sink (obviously following the supplied sink template). If you're getting a granite worktop the fitters will shim out to accommodate the thickness of the stainless steel so there's no need to set this sink lower in the carcase

Freehand routing should be avoided by the novice especially on narrow edges ... the router will be unsteadily 'balanced' when cutting (generally to route on a thin section you fix wide battens along the sides, thus increasing the surface area that the router rests on).

 

[outmyway]

Thanks for the reply Symptoms

If you're getting a granite worktop the fitters will shim out to accommodate the thickness of the stainless steel so there's no need to set this sink lower in the carcase

Do you mean the granite fitters will chase out on the underside to accommodate the sink edge thickness? (around the underside of the sink cutout).

Could I use an electric plane on the edges of the unit ... or hard to get an equal depth cut the full length?

Freehand routing should be avoided by the novice especially on narrow edges ... the router will be unsteadily 'balanced' when cutting (generally to route on a thin section you fix wide battens along the sides, thus increasing the surface area that the router rests on).

I see what your saying ... clamping on battens is a good idea ... fairly fool proof?

 

[big-all]

if you are well used to routing but never done freehand your attempts to travel in a strait line will finish in a 5 to15 degree deflection dependent on how much your removing in one pass

 

[loosenup]

Hi Outmyway

Don't go with the fitters putting shims under the granite , the sink needs to be rebated into the unit as per your original question.. big al is right , unless you are experienced in routing you will find it difficult to control. I would suggest that you speak to the supplier of the granite as very often they are used to having to do this and for a small charge would do it on site during the fitting process .. this will ensure that the sink is in the correct position regarding the cut-out that will be done by the suppliers.. even a coupla mm wrong can cause minor probs. Or if you are fairly confident with a router then go with Symptoms suggestion of clamping large battens to the cheek of the unit to give you a larger surface area for the router to sit the base on .. much safer for fingers and other protruding items.

Phill

 

[outmyway]

Thanks Phill ....

I will have a practice with an off-cut clamped between two battens to see how I get on!

..... if I don't feel comfortable with it I will ask the granite fitters ...

 

[big-all]

Thanks Phill ....

I will have a practice with an off-cut clamped between two battens to see how I get on!

..... if I don't feel comfortable with it I will ask the granite fitters ...

you only need one baton
when going left to right the baton needs to be away from you behind the baseplate
or right to left near you as the cutter is turning clockwise it pulls towards you right to left as the cutter digs into the wood on the side nearest to you

 

[outmyway]

Thanks for the tips and advice .... I did it today ...

Using a single batten worked fine with a 16mm straight bit ...

(Had to hack the back of the unit around because its such a tight fit for taps and overflow ... but that's another story!).

 

[joinerjohn]

Before you install the base unit, you might want to seal the area you have cut out with some varnish. Always helps where a sink is involved (just in case of any small water leakage.

 

[foxhole]

Would have been simpler to remove the timber completely and replace with a metal strap, stronger and no risk of water getting into base unit..

 

[outmyway]

Would have been simpler to remove the timber completely and replace with a metal strap, stronger and no risk of water getting into base unit..

foxhole
At the front yes ... did think of that. I might brace it up with a metal support under the chipboard.

At the back I needed to keep the back panel and cross brace to have something to screw supports for the back lip of the sink. The drain and tap holes meant I couldn't put a metal strap across there.

Before you install the base unit, you might want to seal the area you have cut out with some varnish. Always helps where a sink is involved (just in case of any small water leakage.

joinerjohn - Good idea!