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Thanks to you both. The bath was lowered when installed and the front completely tiled for the look. As it has been lowered it may be difficult to stretch and reach the trap. In respect of my method of replacing the trap with sealant top and bottom. Is this the correct procedure? Does...

The problem with this Sime boiler is that it doesn't just out and out break down. It acts up. The boiler runs fine for months then it starts acting up by cutting out and flashing green and orange or red. I am never sure which. I believe it is red and this means problem with the line post-...

I need to replace a bath trap because it cracked and broke up when the stainless steel strainer was being tightened. The bath has been completely tiled in, so I have to go under the floor to replace the trap. A really very tight squeeze and hopefully my arms are long enough to reach the...

The property is 120 years old with lathe and plaster walls. The walls were skimmed over 5 years ago, and lasted well without cracks. Now there is a 3 foot long hairline crack above the radiator. I raked it out and filled with Polyfilla, then emulsioned the whole wall. The crack returned...

This site has numerous comments about the need to bed stone/resin trays in cement, and to avoid simply using silicone. Despite the instructions, would it be safer/stronger to bed this tray in cement?

I have just taken delivery of a Fresssh 760mm x 760mm x 55mm stone resin tray. The tray is constructed from a limestone and resin composite and weighs 12 kgs. I have read through the installation instructions and all it says "use a silicon sealant to secure the tray in position". There is no...

Many thanks for your advice.

What would you recommend to seal the edges of 18mm marine ply> Is it necessary to seal the underside? The marine ply shower base will be about 9cms above the concrete sub floor. The sub floor is the first floor of a building.

Thanks again. From your explanation it would appear that external ply is not foolproof either! I can't help but think that the ends of the ply should be sealed too. We inherited the existing setup and curiously the ceramic tiles were laid directly onto chipboard. There has been some...

If I take off the tiles, I will have to Aquapanel the walls, which means the bath will have to come out. It is never ending! After my experience in the shower room, which currently looks like Beirut! I was hoping not to have to repeat this in the bathroom. Anyway, thanks for your reply.

Thanks for taking the time to reply. I was hoping you weren't going to say that! I don't want to take out the toilet, and the waste pipe is boxed in the length of the room. It is nicely boxed in with rounded plastic edges. I also wonder just how good external ply is once wet. Does it...

In our shower room it has been so hard to remove wall tiles without badly damaging the plasterboard, that I ended up cutting out the plasterboard with the tiles attached. I am now having to re do the wall, and am going to use Aquapanel in the shower cubicle. Perhaps no bad thing! However, I...

I am removing ceramic tiles from chipboard flooring in the bathroom, and it is proving quite difficult. The tiles are really stuck down and only break out in small pieces. How do you usually get tiles up? The old adhesive is black and is leaving a residue behind. Any advice other than...

Used a plastic spatula to get behind the chrome plate and cut through the sealant. All off now. Thanks

Thanks for that. I modified your suggestion slightly and used a hair dryer, which worked. Hooray!! However, I have taken out the central brass screw but can't get the chrome backplate and white plastic shroud off. Any further suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks for replying. What did you do to get it off?

I am trying unsuccessfully to remove the control knob on an Aqualisa 900 Concealed PBV . I phoned Aqualisa and they said it should be pulled off. I have tugged and pulled but it wont budge. Another site said in response to the same problem, that there are screws under the plasic logo...

The under unit lights are individually switched. However, I take your point, it would be tedious to go around switching off 3 sets of U.C lights everytime we wanted to have the extractor on. I am trying to solve this layout as simply as possible and with the least change to the wiring...

Thanks for the reference. It would be easier for me to have the SFCU feed a juncion box (5amp?) and connect the cooker hood and under kitchen unit lights to the junction box. This would then enable simultaneous operation. Would it be acceptable?

Thanks for your reply. Is it within the regs to notch noggins then plaster over? Yes it is RCD protected.