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Doesn't that then mess with the elbow on the outside wall? I guess if I go with my 127mm core bit centred on the spigot it should achieve a drop without having to angle the coring?

Hi guys, I am core drill out from my bathroom on the ground floor where the soil pipe will go about a meter to the drain outside. Doni need to try and factor in a fall when core drilling out or can it go pretty much straight and fall once outside?

Looking to core drill out in my attic to fit an air vent to use with an inline extractor for the bathroom using 100mm plastic ducting. I have a 127mm core drill bit to use with soil pipe. Is this way too big for the extractor and I need to buy a smaller size or is it ok to just fill with...

Thanks for the reply terry. The clay pipe in the ground is 4 inch: I assume there is some kind of flange / fitting which can be mortared into to clay pipe and take the branch but couldn't find anything on screwfix. Regarding the straight pipe through the wall. I assume neither end need the...

Evening all, I will be replacing my old 70's style S trap toilet with a more modern P trap version. As such I need to core drill to the outside and connect the soil pipework to the following: I am a little unsure of the best connection setup to use. I have a push fit 90 degree bend, which I...

OK I'll address the bidet shower plumbing thanks. Regarding the toilet shutoff valve, how do people ensure its correct depth and secure it when chased into wall? Thanks

Really? Why is that? If it is due to pressure, they usually come with a valve built in to reduce. I have actually now found ones which connect to the underside of the toilet water inlet so I might not plum one upto the 15mm supply directly like in my image now.

Evening All, I will soon be replacing my toilet as part of a bathroom renovation with a close coupled toilet. I am planning on redoing the pipework from the current surface mounted to chased and concealed in the external wall. The 15mm main pipe would need to supply the toilet, bidet shower...

Well because heating water with electricity seems to be considered the most expensive method and with electricity costs so high soon adds up.

That's a shame, I had hoped a diy installation would be much more affordable. Oh well, old school immersion it is

Thanks for the reply flame, that was my gut instinct. I guess a better option may be solar in the future with some kind of diy build that heats my immersion a bit.

Hi Everyone, Wondered if people could pitch in with options for my current home setup. My wife and I live in a 70’s bungalow with 2 bedrooms and one bathroom. We have an old warm air heating system which we actually really like. It is nice not having radiators and it warms the home quickly...

Thanks for that Rob. Being a bungalow I am fairly certain the flow should be enough to trigger the pump, being a positive head. Unfortunately I cannot check the specific flow rate is enough of the planned install as it requires the plumping to pump etc to be installed. Are there any down sides...

Couple of questions if anyone in the kno could point me in right direction. I live in a bungalow and am renovating fmy bathroom. I have a immersion heater fo hot water on ground floor and CW. Tank in attic. Planning on installing a dual 3.0 bar pump for a mixer shower. 1) Is it fine / advised...

Quick question. Planning to block in a doorway, what's the best fixings to use for securing the vertical sides to masonry? The stud wall will eventually have another stud wall T off it midway partially into the room so I need it to be secure. Concrete bolts overkill? Thanks

It's more the pressure feeling of it, just doesn't feel as I'd like for final setup. I want it blasting my head not tickling.

How did you get on? I am currently deciding on what pump to purchase for a single shower for me and the wife. I have tried a few friends showers over the year and always found them to be lacking the pressure I would want. Currently fitted a Triton AS2000 to see why a power shower unit is like...

When you say chop do people just go in with a cutting disc?

So I just removed a non load bearing wall between my toilet and shower room in my 70's bungalow. Looking to reroute some of the pipes to relocate the sink and when looking under the floorboards I noticed that the pipes run around the perimeter of the room and when passing the soil pipe area...

Hi Everyone, Currently DIY'ing the bathroom in my 1970's bungalow. I have removed the non load bearing wall between toilet and shower room. What is the best way to make the blockwork flush enough for plastering? Is it a case of chiselling away so there is enough of a recess? Thanks