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Mystery Plumbing

Thanks for all the replies... I've understand that the deeper the better... We'll be here about 4-5 years so I'll probably just put something 10mm thick down. Were talking about 37 square meters. It wasn't super cold last winter - but I'm certain a little additional layer can't do harm...

I have removed the fugly laminate from the downstairs in my 1990's build house and whilst the concrete floor is dry - its freezing cold. What is the best insulation I can put down, onto the solid concrete floor, and float my engineered wood floor on top of? I know the thicker the insulation...

Quick question to any paving experts out there. I have laid a new sandstone slab patio on a semi dry mix of sand and cement (6:1). I used the guide from the paving expert website (laying flags). I'm just wondering how long it takes to set and how long to wait before pointing it? If too...

Thanks - which ones are those which are designed for getting things out of?

Just sat and tried this... I cannot fit a 4" pipe behind the oven in the kitchen (without massively chiseling the wall back and potentially supporting it against neighbours wall)... I couldn't face pulling all of the units forward. Looks like its back to the macerator...

Would I need access points/covers when it goes underground or at bends? Also how often do you put manholes etc... I need to look how to plan this if its an underground run but don't know where to start

Thanks... Thats a good idea actually. I could just dig up some paving and meet it underground.

I’m seriously considering running it without a macerator now and just accepting a lower flow on the limb outside and putting an access port there! Thanks for the advice.

I’ve drawn sewer on plans...

The sewer runs down the side of the house. To travel to the sewer I’d have a 5.5m run through a dining room with oak on solid floor so I had ruled that out.

I couldn’t raise the toilet due to the stairs (there is already low headroom) and the house and garden are level.

Here is a plan... my art I know... I could probably get away if I run it 1:40 to garden and then make the gradient less with an access point in the garden?

What’s the minimal drop? It’s going under stairs (toilet and basin) and I can’t lift the toilet to get the drop. Whilst 4” would fit It would be almost flat for most of the run, I’d get a bit of lift initially with a macerator to get the fall. Furthermore I’d imagine having to plumb the sink...

Thanks for that. I cannot get the fall on the 4”. It’s for a small under stairs cloakroom and i wish I could. I was informed that the higher the wattage he better and as I can’t afford the expensive SaniPro a less expensive but powerful TurboFlush would be fine. Screwfix reviews are good?

I am installing a new bathroom and am considering two options for the macerator unit... I can install a more powerful but older unused (brand new) TurboFlush T11 850 Watt. Or a newer WaterEasy (TurboFlush) 550 Watt model from Screwfix? The price difference is £100 (the newer one more...

Gonna give it a go. Thanks!

Yes we have full access from behind as its a stud wall lined under the tiles with backerboard. The back of the stud wall is in the boiler cupboard and its exposed - in case of future access issues but it seems its handy already. I'd considered the rad extension... I'll try some short ones...

Here, not sure what happened.