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Indeed, first time I've been caught out like that. Funny thing is, it's sort of worked out better now as aiming for level with lower reveal meant that the window sill would then be above the border line, this way I can get them both the same height :) As for the mosaics being thicker...

Yeah, they are Padova, multi-format so probably designed for either. Started fixing today, went OK considering it was my first time wall tiling and was going for a brick pattern. Missus kept asking why I was measuring it out & double checking so many times. We wanted the tiles to finish...

Yeah, noticed that some tiles have a chamfer which makes the grout gap look larger. I'm going to have a mosaic border which has a grout joint of 3mm (due to backing sheet) so maybe I should go with 3mm all around, comprimsiing from the 2mm I was going to use and the 4mm minimum they suggest!

They are these, but 15.5 x 31.6 so possibly designed for both wall & floor http://www.toppstiles.co.uk/detail.php?pid=340&offset=42&Category=&searchval=&actionsearch=&action=&gid=2 I usually go with 5mm floor and 2mm wall but was curious. They are uniformally shaped ceramics although...

You can buy slate in odd sizes to make irregular patterns if that is what you are after, would save cutting anyhow. I cut my slates with a diamond disc and depending on direction of 'grain' dictated whether it would cut cleanly or not.

I'd always thought that in general for small ceramic wall tiles a 2mm spacer is the norm. The ceramics I've got are 155x310mm. I've worked all of the spacing out, etc for 2mm spacing. Just turned a box over to start tiling and it says "this material has to be fixed using a minimum grout...

Cheers mate, I did think it looked small enough to physically go in with the rubber sealing it but wasn't 100%.

I'm moving my WC across by about a 1m from the soil pipe. Will a 90 degree pan connector (with the ribbed rubber bit on end) fit straight into a length of soil pipe, or will I need a collar? I'd try but I don't have any soilpipe here at the mo!

Yeah I did, not :roll: at you, but at your silly customer!!

Ah, that would be the problem then :rolleyes: The BAL single part flex says if used on T&G floor it has to be covered over with 15mm ply. Fastflex (2 part) said fine on T&G, just make sure they are screwed down :) The 2 part is far more expensive though, so maybe that's why he bought...

I suppose time will tell :) What adhesive did you use?

Well.........never say never!! I'm sure it will be fine :lol: I take it you have had a tile installation fail over T&G after using a Fastflex type adhesive?

Will be fine mate. I used the 2 part fastflex and screwed all of the boards down as well as the original nailing. I installed some marble over a part concrete part chipboard patchwork (lol) floor using the single part flexible stuff (balflex?) and that has been fine for 2 years. High...

AH, thanks mate :)

Emulsifying pad?? I know you told me to seal them :oops: but I'm up against it, had ran out of sealer and wanted to grout them. I'd read enough cases of trav/marble not absorbing as highly as other naturals such as slate, and so not to worry about the pre-seal. I could relate to this as...

Fixed a Travertine floor using BAL fastflex, then grouted using BAL wide joint grout using BAL Admix. Debated about sealing tiles first but many had told me there was no need with travertine/marble. Washed floor numerous times with water, grout residue coming back. Ran out of old HG...

Ah right, I'm going to skirt it anyway so shouldn't be a problem :)

Really, I have done a bathroom from scratch and did the floor first. Is it just to prevent getting adhesive/grout from walls on the new floor tiles, or is there a better reason?

When I did a slate floor and a marble floor I used HG products. A HG cement/grout remover, then folowed up with marble impregnator and have used a marble/trav cleaner for general maintenance. I'm pretty much out of the cleaners now and need a grout film remover and also a general cleaner...

Thanks :)