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I removed wooden windows on dormers. The wooden frame of the dormers are rendered over. I cut back the render on the sides of the windows to be able to remove the windows. On the top of the old window was a flat render bead holding the render. Removing this has left a jagged edge on the...

I want to replace the existing wooden door because it is warped and daylight can be seen through the gap. So considering a Composite door. The floor is Rubaon quarry tiles then a 20mm high x 110mm deep concrete cill, on which the door frame rests. For a composite door, I am not sure what I...

The last foot or so of a rafter has rotted away and is held in place by the lead flashing. The asbestolux eaves strip is hanging down. The rafter runs up the side of a dormer to the ridge. So does the whole rafter to the ridge have to be replaced?

The kitchen sink mixer tap is leaking at the joint between the base and the swivel head body. It is 15 years old, is it easy to repair with a new seal/O ring? If a replacement is required, the house plumbing is a vented HWC and an AGA which uses gravity to heat the water (no pump), so the hot...

Thanks for your advice. The gates are standard redwood, maybe treated. I guess I'll phone a few yards to see if they can help.

I have a pair of wooden gates made by AJ Charlton of Frome. They are at the end of the garden to access the geese paddock. They are about 20 years old. The top rail on each is rotting but the other parts are fine. So I am considering replacing the rails. They are mortice and tenon joints. The...

Got to replace the manhole cover over an old klargester. The old one was rusted as if the fumes from the klargester caused the rust. I am going to use 3:1 mortar, but this does not seem to last. tends to crumble away. Thought about using adhesive but it wont stick to the polypropylene base of...

Swivel spout. Water pooling at the joint with the sink. Water seems to vent from the spout and no more, rather than a leak. Tap is ten years old Repair or replace?

This was the kitchen but still has an oil boiler in it, (far from ideal). currently tiles, but prefer to use wood flooring. Is it sensible to have a section of the floor with tiles for the boiler and the rest wood? Or is lino on top of the tiles better, apart from the boiler area? Or other...

Trying to find one this small with two immersion heaters. One from PV and a standard one. 200l is available but not seen them in this size. Any suggestions ?

2004, Balance flue. Exhaust fumes in room, only noticeable as a door is now fitted in to the door way, it was a kitchen but will be a bedroom. 4" Rubber O ring seal with burner onto baffle box and rectangular rope seal on top of baffle box would benefit from replacement. What is the best way to...

Thanks for your help. I spoke to a boiler engineer who advised to use an unvented cylinder by the side of the boiler to heat the hot water and set the boiler to heat the CH and cylinder, or just one shower and retain the combi facility. The hot water flow rate of the boiler is not sufficient to...

A plumber suggested the addition of an accumulator to improve the pressure of the domestic hot water when showering, there are two showers. The boiler is a WB Heatsalve 12/14 Combi, max flow rate is 15l/min. Shower 1 is a Mira excel Shower 2 is a Hansgrohe ecostat S Measured cold water pressure...

Fitted a cooker hood, manual suggests 150mm ducting. Ducting will go through the ceiling and vent through the roof vertically. I can get 150mm round ducting and the connectors. But how to and what to use to get it through the roof and to seal against ingress? Tiles are clay Double Roman. Don't...

A soakaway and pipe is required for 20m sq of pitched roof and for a French drain at the base of a westerly facing wall. The pipe (5.5m) from the wall to the soakaway will go under a driveway. I have seen a 110mm pipe inside a 160mm pipe under a drive to allow for weigh to the cars. Is this the...

Two pigsties near the house (5m) , thinking of converting them into single storey annexe accommodation. 36m sq, is this big enough for accommodation, or should it be left as it is? currently used to store wood and tools etc.

2:1. 1. Stone dust + 1. sharp sand + 1. NHL3.5. You need variable aggregate sizes such as above. do not use one size ,e.g. sharp sand. Mortar will fall apart. Ask local merchants what mix builders use. Use a 4 or 5" angle grinder to remove old mortar, and brushes or scrapers. maybe dampen area...

Worth a thought certainly. Had considered using 10mm extenders to bring the socket level with the laminate.

Cut an laminate MDF splashback with holes cut for sockets. What is the best way to seal the cut surfaces please? MDF undercoat and topcoat; seems a lot? Varnish? PVA and something? Ta

Thank you for your thoughts and advice.