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Its a very big thank you to everybody who has contributed help! It proved to be a damaged neutral! The cable has been replaced, so onward and upward.

No problem I can add a photo tomorrow. I am not sure what checks he carried out? I just left him to it! Everything worked attached to the plastic CU however a gland wasn't used! So the changes were metal clad CU and this was attached with a gland.

Further issues have developed. So a new metal clad consumer unit was fitted and connected up and immediately blew the fuse in the spur and tripped the main RCD. The sparky I used is claiming it's the SWA which must be damaged? He is insisting that it needs replacing? I am not convinced as I have...

So I have managed to find a sparky who will quote me tomorrow morning. I wanted to be at least armed with some info before then! As ever I appreciate all the responses and advice.

So the usage would be for power tools and lawnmower etc. There are 3 bayonet light fittings, 1 outside light and 3 double sockets. 12 metres from the house.

The inherent power supply in my workshop requires replacement? I believe from reading threads in these forums that what has previously been installed (not by me) is inadequate or just wrong? So from a 13amp fused spur inside the house, an SWA is connected to a plastic consumer unit in the shop...

Hinge Bolts excellent idea thank you!

Yes, I suppose I could enlarge the hole? The size would be about M6 and it's for external use. The workshop shop door had all the hinge screws removed in an attempt to gain entry hence not wanting to use crosshead bolts!

I am looking for a mushroom/dome head type bolt. They need to be able to sit flush so can't have the square anti-spin shoulder under the head. I have considered roofing bolts, however, I don't want the crosshead type. Any ideas would be very much appreciated. Thanks Marcus.

I think it's safe to say that I may have had an unnecessary concern? There is minimal risk from water penetration as the shed is double skinned osb with external timber cladding and a vapour barrier. I will be using a metal-clad CU which I can easily off-set. As ever I do appreciate all your help!

I need to mount a consumer unit in a wooden workshop. I have been led to believe that you are no longer allowed to mount on to wood? Once again I would appreciate your advice on how or what to use? Thanks Marcus.

That's ideal, many thanks once again!

Yes that would be great. I have 4 core, grey, black, brown and unsleeved earth?

Really appreciate your indulgence and thanks for sticking with me. I am thinking I might get a local sparky to complete this for me? Reading back I guess I wasn't really clear? So you understand where l am everything is installed with the exception of the cabling.

Could I not connect the lights together (daisy chain) before the the junction box? I have a 6 metre conduit 1 light at each end with 1 in the middle. The supply and 1 switch enters from the right and the other switch enters from the left currently meeting at a 4 way conduit box. Its evident I...

So here is the proposal well in my head anyway! Supply from consumer unit to junction box and two switches also connected to same junction box. The intention would then be to take 3 feeds from the box junction to 3 light fittings?

I would appreciate some further advice please. Is it permissable to wire a two way switching circuit to a single junction box and then take 3 feeds to 3 light fittings ( batten holders) ?

This one is listed as loop-in at screwfix?

Now that's interesting so the batten holder would screw into the box? Would it, therefore, be easier to use the loop-in type to connect holders together?

Thank you, I am extremely grateful for your comprehensive reply. The local trade counter was unable to provide an answer when asked! I would like to mount on to a conduit box however I do need to find something with holes that align?