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Finchley Central

I guess I'll just have to get an electrician in - I'm just nervous about what @ericmark said about DNO's required checks: So I fear I might pay someone £120 p/h, not agreeing to a fixed price/time, and then them telling me either they can't do the tests required (as @ericmark says), or that...

But you're saying the DNO can legally leave me in a situation where Ze is 0.8Ω, and therefore mean I can't practically/within safety limits have an induction hob, unless I move my kitchen or CU? That seems mad to me.

I'm trying to reconcile different responses here. Your curt answers are at odds with the more helpful responses. One person is saying contact the DNO. Another is saying that the required resistance may not even be achievable except with a short cable - meaning kitchens with hobs have to be very...

In which case I'm not sure where that leaves me - are the installers wrong to not install? Or do 32A hobs just have to be really close to the CU?

I was going by another response suggesting I just contact the DNO. The hob installer said only 0.87Ω would be acceptable at the hob connection - so if you're saying 0.8Ω would be ok for Ze, is just 0.07Ω realistically achievable for the connection from CU to hob?

I called UKPN - went as well as I expected. They just redirected me to the form I already told them I'd seen. Computer says no.

I'm smiling thinking how it would go if I called UKPN and tried to argue with them :) Not sure I have much choice? It's so annoying a broken hob as led down this expensive rabbit hole! But I guess if it's a safety issue, better to be poorer than dead.

Thanks - I just checked and we're with UK Power Networks (great name!). Sadly it seems I do need to pay an electrician anyway - I've attached a list of checks they need before they attend.

I guess there's no harm in just trying the ATA. Regarding the line monitor - the old copper line is still physically attached but the service has stopped. Are you saying the alarm might go off if the physical connection is removed?

Thanks for your help. Have attached photos - it's a hideous mess and I can't wait for the day we replace it.

Recently our induction hob broke, so I bought a new one thinking it would be a drop in replacement. The circuit has a dedicated 40A breaker. When I wired it up, it simply wouldn't switch on. We got a replacement for that and... same thing. So the third one we paid extra for John Lewis to...

Sorry I see what you mean. No - I've not had a chance to get over there. I can ask them to try, but I asked the alarm company that maintains it and they said VoCOM wouldn't work with a VoIP adapter. If it's that simple, then great!

No - there's no landline now. They were on TalkTalk but the landline number was tied to their broadband contract. That's now been ported over to a VoIP with an ATA to adapt their old DECT phone.

My folks recently moved to a fibre connection, and didn't realise their alarm system would then no longer be able to call them. I don't really know anything about alarm systems (in my own home rely on internet-connected cameras) - but looking at the box there's a panel that Google images says...

Actually EDF guy mentioned showers - and nope, we have an unvented cylinder/gas boiler setup, so showers just run at mains pressure.

Biggest things I had on were washing machine and dryer (separate). Had some lights on, fridge/freezer. Didn't coincide with me turning anything on (unless the fridge went kicked in) Obviously I'm not an electrician, so my simple question is - is the only way for the fuse to blow to draw more...

EDF guy came 'round - replaced the fuse, but seemed VERY suspicious I'd done something. "What were you doing?", he insisted. "They don't just blow" So, question is, what did happen? Was he right? Does it indicate sometging fundamentally broken? Odd that the 'cartridge' fuse should blow...

Thanks for input. We had kind of settled on 190mm wide walnut with an oil finish. We saw samples we liked, and a price of about £75 psm inc vat. But they then said it was grade ABCD - I looked into this more, and apparently that means it would be 'very rustic' Looking for what seems to...

Looking at the sample he gave us, the latter. The solid layer looks to be just under a centimetre. I've heard of 14mm - is that necessarily better? Does it simply give you a few more sandings? How many sandings would 7mm give you? Also - is it advisable to screw/glue even if not...