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I think it is brass and it definitley fell off the valve from somewhere - and we have no curtain rings that size in the house! Although I agree it does look like a curtain ring which is why I thought it might just be decorative. But I will call BG tomorrow and get them to come and have a look...

This fitting supplies an adjacent gas fire, installed about 20 years ago. It was looking very dull, and I am decorating so applied some Brasso. A small ring dropped off - see pics. I thought initially it came from the joint further back towards the wall but size-wise, I think it is from round...

Hmmm, point taken, many thanks.

I am about to invest in an insulated sectional garage door so would like to improve the insulation of the rest of the garage. The garage is part integral to the house so the rear half has cavity walls to support the cavity walls of the upper storey. The "bit that sticks out" in front of the...

Thanks. Had thought of installing sockets but only a couple of feet visible above a chest and didn't seem worth carving up a brand new wall. I'll get some D-line trunking in the nearest wall colour (probably white!).

Just mounted a 40" TV to the wall. I want to conceal the power lead and coax aerial flylead in a short length of mini-trunking to tidy things up. If I run them together in a single section, say 25 x 16, will I get "noise" on the aerial from the power lead?

I understand. I don't have that type unfortunately. Definitely the metal can, although not fire rated. The springs are mouse-trap specification and will take your fingers off if not careful and plasterboard edges are a breeze. Many thanks for your time.

Can you enlarge on that? By open down lighters, do you mean where the bulb and carrier is removable? It still leaves only a 50mm dia hole and I cannot see how the spring arms can be lifted from within that. The only option appears to be to pull out the whole unit against the spring pressure...

I have put the halogens back for the time being. I have concluded that I am under loading the drivers (aka transformers/switch mode power supplies etc) and 9/10 have enough tolerance to accept it. 1/10 doesn't and that is causing problems. Solution? Change all the 10-60w drivers to 0-50w...

I notice this Aurora driver has a 10-60w range. The LED bulb is nominally 4.8w. The "premium transformer" range in TLC's catalogue, listed as "suitable for most 12v ac LED's as well as dichroic MR16 lamps" (LT YT50, page 175) are in the range 0-50w, 0-70w etc. Could this be the problem, that...

So the drivers are: Aurora Cat No AU-E60 10-60w/VA Dimmable Electronic Transformer although the ligfhts are not on a dimmer. To repeat, only one of these is causing an issue (with flickering) - so far.

Hmmm, useful info, thanks. But doesn't get at why only one of ten transformer/bulb combinations flickers. The fact that it takes 30mins or so before it starts to flicker suggests that something (eg the transformer) is heating up? I'll have a look at one of the transformers tomorrow and see...

Lamps are all identical, transformers identical as far as I know, all installed at the same time in new ceiling. Need to dig a transformer out of the ceiling void to check but they have driven 12v 50w GU5.3 halogen bulbs ( 1 x transformer/bulb) for last eight years. Lamps are 12v 4.8w 350 lumen.

In a fit of enthusiasm today, I bought 10 X 35w equivalent 12v LED lamps to replace the 50w halogen lamps in my kitchen down lighters. I never gave a thought to the drivers (there is a transformer/driver on each fitting) until I switched them on. They all work (with one exception). Question...

That's the one. The Tridonic digital ballast says it's a digital ballast.........

So when I took it down, turned out it was Thorn Lighting, the one that TLC sell as a "Pop Pack". Replaced it with the same thing (it's only a shed after all) and the wiring and screw holes fit - but the ballast, whilst still branded "Tridonic" digital ballast is quite different, a lot smaller...

I have a 5ft fluorescent fitting (probably from Wickes) in my shed which has ceased to fluoresce. Probably been there 3-4 years. I have tried a new tube to no effect. It has a digital ballast rather than a conventional starter. I have confirmed there is 240v on the input chocblock to the...

Reassuring, thank you. As always, I guess it comes down to workmanship. If I get the same crew as neighbouring houses, should be OK although you can spot houses that have been done from the filled holes, which are neat enough but not necessarily a good colour match.

Many thanks.

I'd be grateful for some advice on this issue. Detached house was built 1996-7 under a version of the Building Regs that permitted use of thermal block for the inner skin rather than cavity wall insulation. As a result we have been seized on by the retro-fit industry for free retro insulation...