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  1. M

    Dimmer Mystery

    I have an electrician wiring an extension for me. I have supplied sockets and switches and he is doing all the rest including wiring, testing and certification. The switches and sockets are from a reputable manufacturer and include a 2 gang dimmer switch. This has been assembled specially by...
  2. M

    Extending TV coax to an extension

    Thanks to all for some good ideas. I'll investigate further over the next few days.
  3. M

    Extending TV coax to an extension

    Can anyone offer advice on the cleanest way to extend TV into an extension? I have an external roof aerial feeding an aerial amplifier in the loft space. This has 4 output sockets feeding various rooms, only two are ever used at one time. I am building a new extension which is on the...
  4. M

    Shed Guttering and Rainwater Diverter

    Now why didn't my search find that? Many thanks, will chase one down.
  5. M

    Shed Guttering and Rainwater Diverter

    Perhaps I didn't explain very well. I know I can plumb the downpipe direct into the water butt. What I am looking to fit is a diverter that directs water from the downpipe into the butt until its full. Then water reverts to the downpipe and the drainage system, rather than the water but...
  6. M

    Shed Guttering and Rainwater Diverter

    I have just had a new shed and fitted guttering and downpipe from the Wickes Miniline range with 50mm dia downpipe. Now I cannot find a rainwater diverter anywhere that will take this size of downpipe. I was thinking of using an adapter to fit a short length of 68mm dia (or even replace the...
  7. M

    Tiles and Mirrors

    I want to fit two large mirrors (1100mm x 800mm and 700mm x 800mm) to a new bathroom wall to form a corner mirror arrangement over a vanity top. The remainder of the walls will be tiled full height and with a 1 tile depth splashback between the vanity unit and the mirrors. What is the best...
  8. M

    Guidelines for Roof Windows

    Are there any guidelines for determining the minimum area of roof lights as a proportion of the total room area below to give adequate daylight? I am looking at a ground floor extension comprising a single room 3.5m x 4m with a monopitch roof spanning in the 3.5m direction. There are bi-fold...
  9. M

    SWA too big for its Box

    Many thanks to all for the suggestions. I hadn't thought of using the box terminal but given the multi-strand/solid core issue (and John W2's confirmation that it is not recommended) I think I will look for an MK or similar metalclad spur unit with two earth terminals. But be warned - the...
  10. M

    SWA too big for its Box

    Thanks John W2. Its a Telco spur unit. The terminal will take the SWA earth core + 1.5mm2 earth core of the T&E but no room for another 1.5mm2 earth link to the terminal on the box. And the multi-strand SWA core doesn't seem to anchor very well with the solid core earths. I'm sure some...
  11. M

    SWA too big for its Box

    I am terminating 2.5mm2 SWA into a Metalclad spur unit from where it continues in twin and earth. The spur unit has only one earth terminal which is pretty much filled by the SWA earth core, being multi-strand rather than solid core, so room for the other earth or the earth link to the box...
  12. M

    Checking Boiler Capacity

    Many thanks, understand where the WIKI is coming from now.
  13. M

    Checking Boiler Capacity

    I am about to commission the build of a new single storey extension and have been checking the capability of the existing ch boiler to handle the new radiator(s). I'd be grateful for confirmation that my figures look about right. I've used the boiler size calculator in the WIKI (also at...
  14. M

    Nuisance Tripping

    Thanks AndyPRK but Ericmark he say potentially bad for bulbholder? It's a standard Hager CU with 6xMCB's on the RCD side and 5xMCB's on the non-RCD side.
  15. M

    Nuisance Tripping

    Only what I read somewhere here, hence the question. But I think Ericmark has answered it. Bulbs are any kind of tungsten bulb, consistently since the house was new. Possibly LED's as well but as Eric says, those and CFLs blow much less often. So no real solution?
  16. M

    Nuisance Tripping

    I have a problem with nuisance tripping of MCBs when a light bulb blows. The house was built 1996/7 with a Hager split load CU. Electrics basically original although a new sub CU was installed 4 years ago to cater for a new kitchen with some re-arrangement of circuits such that downstairs...
  17. M

    A couple of Smoke Alarm questions?

    Is it a requirement to interconnect smoke alarms? I can see it is a good idea.... My house is 1997 built and has smoke alarms on upstairs landing and hall. It now has a heat alarm in the kitchen installed last year. Routine pressing of the test button earlier this year showed one had...
  18. M

    50mm trunking in wall

    Glad this has been useful. I guess the size of conduit depends on how much cabling you need to put through it. Standard conduit is pretty chunky stuff and would be a lot cheaper than fabricating your own - unless you know someone. Also 50x50 section in a 50mm chase isn't going to leave much...
  19. M

    50mm trunking in wall

    I am a structural engineer.....(but not an electrician) You don't say where your lounge wall is located: outside wall, party wall, interior wall? Unless it is an interior wall it is unlikely to be only one brick thick, even the inner leaf of a cavity wall will be surprisingly strong and will...
  20. M

    Keeping the mice out

    Just a footnote on some research over the last couple of days. Intumescent products do not seem to be the way to go here. Intumescent expanding foam is available but manufacturer's tech support was unequivocal about its reaction with PVC insulation - "fizzing has been observed" (!)...
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