Search results

I've just put new joists into my attic and I'm just about to stick in the flooring then put in the stud word for eaves cupboards, I have a problem though, the rafters sink slightly towards the centre of the room which will obviously show up if when I plasterboard the room, what is the best way...

have you tried tapping it with a mallet?

I understand, but there's only an inch or 2 either side of the joists running parallel to them and the ends of the room are under the eaves so a good few feet will never have any load , the entrance to the room has overlapping joists from another room which will support the flooring further...

thanks I won't bother with the nogging then as any unsuported periphery won't be an area that gets walked on

thanks any screw type recommendations or will any wood screw be ok? when you say noggin the perimeter could you please expand on why this is needed? what kind of glue seems to be the preference for the joins and for fixing to the joists?

I want to insulate my ground floor kitchen / diner, I have some 100mm and some 170mm glass mineral wool, I plan to net the underside of the joists which are 150mm should I stick the 170mm in and compress it with the flooring so it's all tight or use the 100mm and leave a 50mm gap between the...

I have my flooring on the way but having never done this before I'm a bit lost on the best way to lay it, people keep telling me different things the flooring is 18mm t&g p5 and going onto 200x75 joists what screw type ,diameter & length ,should I use? what ctrs should I put them in at...

thanks, that's cleared a few things up I'll stick it all up and leave the scrim until the room is ready to be skimmed just one last question if I stagger the boards i'm going to be left with a flat edge and a tapered edge, would it be best to start the next run with the tapered edge...

I've just replaced some large joists to my kitchen ceiling and to my attic, I found I had to cut away some brickwork to get them in the kitchen bit, the attic wasn't too bad though and I was able to wiggle them in by lifting them in at an angle maybe buy or get hold of some wood of a similar...

thanks I plan to have them skimmed once I have the whole room finished which will be a while , should I still fill the joins after taping or not bother if it's going to be skimmed? is it a bad idea to cut my downlight holes before skimming?

I've got a load of 2.4x1.2m x12.5mm tapered edge boards to redo my bedroom ceiling , the walls are bare of plaster too but will be done at a later stage I've a few questions before I attempt to start the ceiling should i leave a gap near the walls or butt right up to them? what do I do...

Hi thanks for the replies I'm going to double up the joists supporting the trimmer by coach bolting and glueing them together, I will also double up the trimmer joist , I think this will be more than adequate and won't add too much more cost to the job.

I can't really comment on skip pirces in your area but my usual supplier charges £130 for an 8 cubic yard skip (the largest residential type) that may be overkill for your needs , a smaller skip will cost even less There's no hassle involved in hiring a skip either, all it takes is a quick...

Buy a decent dust mask, some gloves & a few rolls of large tieable garden bags , wear some old clothes and get in the loft, shove all the crap you can in the bags whilst in there then tie them up before taking them out the loft when all the rubbish is out you can get in and give it a hoover...

I have been laying new joists in my attic, they're 195 by 75mm x 4.3m finished size around the bay window I need to have a trimmer joist that spans around 2.5m then hang the ends of about 5 joists from it, the trimmer joist will be hung about 100mm from the ends of the joists supporting it...

I've stuck some bits of ply in for the shim, it's a pretty dry area so should should be ok got them all levelled off now and tomorrow i'll do the struts then i've got the attic to do :)

that's what i'm doing ,it's what I tried to say in my previous post , I don't know what to use for shim though, I have the small plastic shims but i'm not sure if they're good enough for this purpose, maybe I should buy some 3mm ply and use that ?

the string is pretty tight :) the bits that are out are the joist ends, this is because the wallplate dips slightly in the middle and some of the joists are different heights, in theory these won't move much at all apart from their slight expansion & shrinkage over time

right, just put a few string lines up and found the 2 outer joists to be about 5 mm higher than the rest I'm not sure what to do I could chisel rebates where the outer joists sit so they are more level with the other but this would be awkward I could shim the inner joists although...

Hi thanks for the advice I see your point anobium geraint - yeah they will settle over time and once the flooring is on they should flatten out a bit Deluks - I aint chopping them but thanks for the suggestion The reason I wanted to pull them flat was to help me level them so...