Plasterboarding a ceiling

[jbuk]

I've got a load of 2.4x1.2m x12.5mm tapered edge boards to redo my bedroom ceiling , the walls are bare of plaster too but will be done at a later stage

I've a few questions before I attempt to start the ceiling

should i leave a gap near the walls or butt right up to them?

what do I do with the taper edge that is against a wall or corner?

do I stagger the boards?
if so should start the next run with the tapered edge against the wall or the cut edge at the wall?

should I leave a gap between boards or put them tight against each other?

 

[1john]

Are you going to tape and fill or skim? If you are going to tape and fill then it's best to try and avoid having a taper near the wall, it makes the filling a pain in the bum. Keep the boards tight to the walls that was when the walls are boarded they can be pushed up tight to the ceiling boards and therefore minamising cracking and the wall/ceilign junction. Keep the boards tight together too and stagger the joins on the widths of the board.

Use self adhesive scrim in the tapers and paper tape on the square edges.

 

[jbuk]

thanks

I plan to have them skimmed once I have the whole room finished which will be a while , should I still fill the joins after taping or not bother if it's going to be skimmed?

is it a bad idea to cut my downlight holes before skimming?

 

[NickB_99]

I plan to have them skimmed once I have the whole room finished which will be a while , should I still fill the joins after taping or not bother if it's going to be skimmed?

The self adhesive scrim tape alone will be fine, if you are having it skimmed. Though the self adhesive has a habit of drying out if you leave the scrim a long time before skimming. Personally I apply the tape just before skimming, but night before or even 24hrs before may be ok (someone else may be able to confirm here)

is it a bad idea to cut my downlight holes before skimming?

Yes. Skim first then have the holes cut. Otherwise would be more difficult to get it smooth round the downlighters.

 

[jbuk]

thanks, that's cleared a few things up

I'll stick it all up and leave the scrim until the room is ready to be skimmed


just one last question

if I stagger the boards i'm going to be left with a flat edge and a tapered edge, would it be best to start the next run with the tapered edge at the wall or the flat edge seeing as the first run will have the taper at the edge?

i'm guessing start with a taper at the wall then the flat edge will butt up against a taper of the next full board? this should leave taper edges along the whole length of the wall and maybe easier to tape?

 

[Richard C]

I'd butt like with like but it won't really matter. In future if it’s being skimmed, get square edge boards if you can, taper edge (tape & fill) boards is just creating more work for your spread.

Board longest edge across the joists; with joists at 450mm pitch, you wont need noggins with 12.5mm boards; noggins should be fitted with 600mm pitch joists unless you use 15mm boards.

 

[ajrobb]

Is it right to use baseboard if you are going to skim?

Is faceboard meant for tape-and-fill?

 

[Richard C]

Is it right to use baseboard if you are going to skim?

Is faceboard meant for tape-and-fill?

Not sure what you mean by face/base board ; in this case were talking about standard Wallboard (I think) which comes in taper edge (for tape & fill) & square edge (for skimming) but the board materials & paper linings are the same for both. Using taper edge when skimming means that the plasterer will have to fill out the tapers flush first befor he can skim the entire wall = more work & plaster.

There are other specialist boards; Moisture Resistant, Soundblock, Fireline, Duraline, Fermaline etc. all come in taper edge form but not all are supplied square edge.

 

[ajrobb]

From British Gypsum White Book: "Type P: Gypsum baseboard: Boards which have a face intended to receive gypsum plaster. They may be perforated during manufacture."

I may have made up the term 'faceboard' from the face paper

 

[Richard C]

From British Gypsum White Book: "Type P: Gypsum baseboard: Boards which have a face intended to receive gypsum plaster. They may be perforated during manufacture."

I may have made up the term 'faceboard' from the face paper

First time I’ve heard it referred to as Baseboard but a look at White Book, seems to use it as a type terminology associated with European Standards & not particularly associated with Wallboard; I previously Googled Baseboard & got;
“In architecture, a baseboard (also called skirting board, skirting,mopboard, floor molding, as well as base molding) is a (generally wooden) board covering the lowest part of an interior wall. Its purpose is to cover the joint between the wall surface (usually plaster or drywall) and the floor.”

Hence my confusion!

I Googled “faceboard” & got “welcolm to Facebook”

 

[ajrobb]

Hands up, yes I go to Wickes website and that is where I got confused:
http://www.wickes.co.uk/baseboard/invt/220205/

It is a 9.5mm square edged small board.

 

[jbuk]

it's been a while since I posted this thread but i've just got the first board in

bit of a ballache as the room is farily out of square and I have a bay window to try and get the boards to fit around but all good fun, not to mention that when fitting the joists my builder mate forgot to subtract 1/2 the joist width so now I have to trim each board to suit :/ (my fault too I suppose as I helped and should've picked up on the error)


anyways just having a little self doubt whilst placing the second board

I've read that square edge board should have a 3mm gap between each board but tapered can be butted up flush
infact now I think about it only the long sides have tapers (something i never realised until now)

would I be best to leave a 3mm gap all round each board or just the square edges, or none at all, man I'm getting a headache heheheh

 

[Alastairreid]

You butt the boards tight, no matter the type.

 

[jbuk]

Hi, I will do that then

what is the reasoning for gaps on some of the guides I've read? (infact most of the guides)

 

[Richard C]

what is the reasoning for gaps on some of the guides I've read? (infact most of the guides)

What guides have you read that in then?

As Alistair said, no gaps; you butt the boards tight regardless of the type, any gaps will have to be filled before taping & skimming & are more likely to crack in the future. With joist pitch no greater than 450mm, noggins aren’t necessary with 12.5mm boards but if you’re using just 9.5mm boards, I would consider providing some on the unsupported board edges; stagger the board joints.