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Gary ... personally I'd run in new lengths of T&E for all the hassle of in-line jointing and inaccessible j/bs. Are you seriously sticking with chunky conduit and sticky-out boxes for a boudoit... hardly pleasant on the eye for the "significant other" whilst your busy "mining" away :wink:

How would you go about it for Brown Black Grey? :?

Hey up ... run in new lengths of T&E would be ideal rather than joint the current ones. Are the runs currently in 25mm conduit to surface mounted boxes? Are the runs from above the garage {bedroom} ceiling where j/bs can be used? Are the sockets currently fed from a garage CU or...

Hi... sorry to have to have came via this route as it may have inconvenienced others! Struggled to access "the other site" as it says I'm banned when I use my home pc. Tried to contact webmaster but Yahoo! won't let it happen. Now it's not the end of the world, is it. Is the site down or...

There's a reason for asking! Thanks for your advice... albeit worthless! :roll:

Seeking "the scruff" Desperately need your assistance please. Regards

Wouldn't an RCD at point of supply confirm immediately whether it was TT or not? How long have RCD/ELCB been about for TT systems?

Noted. Many Thanks - UF

Hi all I'm lead to believe flat roofs are to be re-felted every 10 years or so. What are the tell-tale signs of when it needs doing... other than when there's puddles below it? Does a dormer get re-insulated at the same time? Is there an alternative to felting... such as lead...

Hi guys/gals I know very little (read jack$hit) about insulating attics/roofs. The trusses(?) in this pic are approx 450mm apart. I'm looking to fit insulating boards... or anything recommended...

Looking to move into a resale dormer bungalow in North Wales built 1970. CH + DHW system made up of gas back-boiler (sorry, no details), vented indirect cylinder and C-plan arrangement with what appears to be a single pipe CH circuit! (... World copper shortage...) Switchmaster mech...

Obviously a cool system is safer to work on so switch water + CH to off in advance and allow the pump to stop on its own should it have a pump run-on feature, as expected. Depending on the location of your MV (as in the first floor) would you really need to completely drain the whole system...

Yes. Don't run it dry for too long though as it's meant to cool itself by passing water! :oops:

There's a local heating offer for £2k+vat supplied and fitted; 80,000btu Sabre combi (probably model less than 25 HE) 7 rads of size choice 7 pairs rad valves Built-in time clock Filling loop Tubing Addition boilers; Sabre 25 HE (+£100) Sabre 29 HE (+£150) Potterton Performa 24...

It would be preferred if you indicated what you think the answers to each of the questions are. I'm not a plumber but I'd have an educated guess or logical choice in this "vote for Joe" style homework.

... you'd have enough for a Big Mac meal and McFlurry too!

What happens when you revert it back to auto?

Try closing off all the other rads leaving this one open... see if anything improves. It may be worth noting on each valve you close... how many turns/half turns it takes to close in case of balancing. Other than that you may have to remove ploblem rad for a flush out. There may even be a...

Isolated at rad valves? Fitted with thermostatic valve which is stuck shut? Air in rad? Blockage? Never been piped in? Has it ever worked? Has it been recently worked on or removed for decorating, perhaps?

Great stuff... good luck, hope it gets better for you.